I always thought the Aussie ones were listed as 132 kg wet. But they have heaps of ADR crap that is foisted upon us. I've got a box of road bits that I don't use that weighs 5kg. .
The TTR with a GYTR muffler and B and B bash plate, bark busters and heavy duty tubes, mine weighed 126 kg with quarter of a tank of fuel. Still fitted with horn tail light and headlight.
I have since managed to get another 7 kilos off that weight.
I dont know how good my scales are but as a reference and for info, I measured two WR250F's in similar condition to the TTR, stripped down for the bush riding. With HD tubes, bash plate, hand guards and rad guards.
US spec one - Empty tank DEP slip on muffler standard battery was 117 kg
Aussie one - Arrow Titanium muffler and lithium battery and steeering stabiliser - 118.5 kg.
Both near enough to empty fuel tanks.
And my CCM404 was 136 stripped down for the bush with an empty tank.
Interesting enough, the TTR was lighter on the back wheel than the WR's, but heavier on the front wheel. And you can feel the difference lifting either end. The back of the TTR is light as, but the front is a bastard to lift up.
So they are all heavy, and the TTR is only a couple kilos heavier (stripped down) than a WR.
They all feel light to ride, but heavy to push!!
-- Edited by Kaos on Thursday 9th of February 2017 06:56:14 AM
Still think for what I have removed from it,
it still seems heavy....
the scales are at there limit at 125kgs..
might try diffrent scales with a higher limit..
The Australian one , which i own, weights 120 kg dry, according to owners manual. I assume, that s happening because of larger dimensions : 2195 mm length instead of 2095 mm for the European and us models and 2145mm for the open enduro, which weight 113 kg dry. In addition, i noticed that the us model is the tallest (915mm seat height). Aussie one got 910 mm seat height and european 895 mm. Can someone explain to me why this happens ? Is it frame or suspension that cause the different seat height. Anyway, 7 kg more for my aussie one is devastating.
The Australian one , which i own, weights 120 kg dry, according to owners manual. I assume, that s happening because of larger dimensions : 2195 mm length instead of 2095 mm for the European and us models and 2145mm for the open enduro, which weight 113 kg dry. In addition, i noticed that the us model is the tallest (915mm seat height). Aussie one got 910 mm seat height and european 895 mm. Can someone explain to me why this happens ? Is it frame or suspension that cause the different seat height. Anyway, 7 kg more for my aussie one is devastating.
The Aussie ones are heavier because of all of the ADR gear the govt insists on for our registration. The US spec ones dont have our heavy glass headlight and our huge speedo, not to mention the heap of other stuff you end up taking off. Original speedo & headlight are heavy and can be replaced with lighter aftermarket options. Same with the muffler and tail tidy. Probably most of your extra seven kilos right there.
The different lengths could be explained by different sized rear sprockets Aussie 44 v US 50(?) AS for height maybe different markets have different spring rates.? We Aussies are a nation of pie eaters / beer drinkers after all.
Pie eaters-beer drinkers . I am greek an i can say the same for us. Thank you for the detailed answer. The only thing i didn't get, is how a big rear sprocket equals less bike length. I though it went the other way around. I am inspired by your ttr build and i d want to write some things down about my thoughts on mine, but i don't want to be offtopic here. Should i create a new topic?
Lose a kg or so with a tubeliss system instead of h/d tubes, but it's an expensive kg!
I wouldn't recommend Tubliss. I've tried it over 18 mths. The pressures in both chambers need to be checked, and probably inflated, EVERY ride. I've also had an ongoing issue with the rear deflating on rides. I've tried every thing I can think of. The tyre been off and on several times. Cleaned the rim, cleaned the bead, re-mounted it extremely carefully double checking everything. Still an issue. I will say the inner tube clamps the bead well. I have ridden hard for two hours with the rear tyre completely deflated and other than a very squirmy ride no problems. On the other side of the equation I didn't notice any great improvement in traction.
Two emails to the manufacturers for help or advice resulted in zero response.
I haven't checked the weight saving claim and I didn't notice any suspension performance increase
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. I am greek an i can say the same for us. Thank you for the detailed answer. The only thing i didn't get, is how a big rear sprocket equals less bike length. I though it went the other way around. I am inspired by your ttr build and i d want to write some things down about my thoughts on mine, but i don't want to be offtopic here. Should i create a new topic?
