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Post Info TOPIC: Oil cooler information including cheaper alternatives to OEM part


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Oil cooler information including cheaper alternatives to OEM part
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Damn - just wrote out an entire 1000 words and lost it as it timed out. Aaaaaargh! Ah well, I shall begin anew. 

So planning on an oil cooler to a) increase oil capacity and cooling whilst b) being a tight bastard. Most oil cooler kits for bikes are ridiculously expensive. Most I've seen are more than $400. I am trying to source and install all componentry for sub $100 aud evileye We'll see if that can be achieved. 

Im considering two types of coolers that are predominantly used as power steering coolers.  They are the extruded alloy type (like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161772039926?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) and the tube and fin type (like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DERALE-8-INCH-COPPER-ALUMINIUM-POWER-STEERING-OIL-COOLER-KIT-13210-HOLDEN-FORD-/172508459602?hash=item282a4e3252:g:ZgEAAOSwaB5Xu7tg ).

With the extruded alloy type you need to ensure they are a double pass cooler. They have both oil barbs at one end. They are much more efficient than single pass with a barb on each end. These coolers are popular with the off road 4wd brigade as they are tough

The other type of cooler with fin and tube is commonly called a derale type cooler.  This cooler will need a guard IMHO to be safe. I'll make one if I go this way from alloy angle and steel mesh.

I've chosen the above linked coolers as they will be easiest to mount.  Most coolers don't come with "feet" so the two above should be simple to mount. The extruded alloy cooler is also hard to track down in less than 12 inches. 12 inches is too long IMHO and it would be a pain in the ass to run lines to. I'm going to mount a frame made out of alloy angle I have lying around in the shed and also mount the cooler in a similar place to the standard Ttr "factory" cooler.  

I am also planning on mounting the cooler with barbs to the sky. My reasoning is that it will affect the oil sight glass less like this.  You could also fill it separately to the regular oil fill in a change.  Although mounting if this way will require air pressure in the inlet to remove the oil in a change. Might be a pain on the road but most of my trips are local.

I'm not considering a radiator style cooler as I have killed a number of those on my old DR650 when it had a few naps in the dirt. They are just too susceptible to damage in my experience.  I'm also not considering the bees knees type stacked plate oil cooler as they don't fit with requirement "b" abovewink.

This thread won't discuss he need to fit an oil cooler in detail as that is the topic of many another thread.  I want capacity first and cooling second with toughness thrown in. Too much to ask? biggrin

I'll obviously need some barbed fittings, some banjos and some oil line. I don't think I'll go for hard alloy 90degree barbed banjos as they are bloody dear. I'm going to use regular banjos (like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Water-coolant-M12x1-25-mm-Banjo-Pipe-with-3-8-9-5mm-Barb-/262425781442?hash=item3d19cba4c2:g:DR8AAOSwstxU9cuz) and put in a 90 degree brass corner if I need it (like this but 8mm instead of 10mm http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2PCS-10mm-Hose-Barb-Elbow-Brass-Barbed-Tube-Pipe-Fitting-/322330008278?hash=item4b0c5d9ad6:g:aVIAAOSwB09YLBns ).

You will also need one of these https://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0543. If you aren't sure what that is see this thread http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t44874914/oil-cooler-information/?sort=oldestFirst&page=2&w_r=1460210126

And some sort of oil line with a recommended internal diameter of around 8mm. You can go pretty with something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AN-8-AN8-Stainless-Braided-PTFE-Teflon-Fuel-Line-Oil-Gas-Hose-1M-3FT-ID-10-5mm-/150975717386?hash=item2326daa00a:g:S5MAAMXQ855RpamH but I'm also pretty sure normal black oil line would suffice. I'm not going for fancy hydraulic shop fittings as we're not talking 1000psi here. Normal hose clips or worm drives should be sufficient. 

I'll post up up how I get on when I've saved some more $. Happy to hear people's thoughts on my plans and choices.

 



-- Edited by pricey on Wednesday 1st of February 2017 12:15:00 AM



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Great stuff Pricey I will follow with interest.

And i assume you are right here. "12 inches is too long IMHO and it would be a pain in the ass" 😯😨
Steve

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Kaos wrote:

Great stuff Pricey I will follow with interest.

And i assume you are right here. "12 inches is too long IMHO and it would be a pain in the ass" 😯😨
Steve


 Hahahaha. Classy Kaos biggrin



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Yep. 😊

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Good stuff Chris

Looking forward to how you get on and every inch countswinkbiggrinwinkbiggrin



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The two Steves - keep it out of the gutter please! Lets try and focus here....evileye



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biggrinbiggrinbiggrin It must be a Steve thingwink



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Thank you very much for the spit take. I was drinking coffee and I about lost it out of my nose lol.

I'm extremely interested in this topic. Can't wait to see what you come up with!



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Should work well...
but if yer want hose with a 8mm ID you need AN6... Not the AN8 which has just over 10mm ID..
I know stuipid.. but the number isn't the bore size.. i found out years ago when I set up the injecton
on my speedway midget...

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Thanks petenz. I was unaware. 



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I'm waiting on the postman to turn up with a few bits for my TTR..

One of these...
www.aliexpress.com/item/Pit-Bike-Radiator-oil-cooler-alluminium-monkey-bike-part-free-shipping/1228975673.html

Some of this...
www.aliexpress.com/item/AN-6-AN6-AN06-Stainless-Nylon-Braided-Fuel-Line-Oil-Gas-Hose/836256878.html

And a oil way blocking bolt from Steve...

just got to find the12mm banjo bolts & banjo pipe barbs in 12 x 8mm



...

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