A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Members Login
Username 
 
Password 
    Remember Me  
Post Info TOPIC: Just picked up a TTR250


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Just picked up a TTR250
Permalink  
 


Was given a 2000 TTR250 from a buddy for free; a little rough but just needs some TLC. Has 352 miles on the clock, but don't know how accurate that is as you can turn back the odometer by hand (although my friend has no reason to lie). It's been in storage for 5 years so I have some work ahead of me; worst part being needs a new fuel tank due to multiple cracks (had gas in the tank when stored away). Cleaned out the carb, changed oil and gas, put on the jumper cables and started right up; no sprag clutch bang upon killing the engine! Here's what I plan on starting with for the restore:

New tires and tubes

New chain and sprockets

New bars, grips, throttle tube

Rebuild carb and rejet with mikuni 140 main, 52.5 pilot

New battery- are the $20-40 batteries off amazon okay?

New spark plug

New mesh oil filter

New fuel lines

New seat cover

New air filter

New brake pads

New oil plug

New fork oil

Air box mod and remove baffling from exhaust

New headlight housing

Eventually new fuel tank-- expensive!!!

Would love to get some grab handles, but I heard they only fit on the Aussie models-- that true? Any tips on things I might have forgotten or may not know about please reply-- would be greatly appreciated.

Dustin-- Moreno Valley, CA



Attachments
__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 2608
Date:
Permalink  
 

How lucky can you get? confuse

Nice one, Dustin and welcome to the forum.

Martyn



__________________

You're never too old to learn something stupid

East Budleigh. Devon



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks Martyn! I knew I would be getting the bike for a few months now and I have been searching the forum for tips and mod. When you replied, I noticed your name right away; a lot of your posts really helped me out. I've been riding two strokes and 450's for a long time and I had never seen a TTR250 and honestly didn't even know they existed (my brother has a TTR230; and this is a completely different bike). I haven't owned a bike in over three years due to financial issues, school, and moving around and the getting the TTR250 is awesome; great little bike biggrin  Thanks again!



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 8557
Date:
Permalink  
 

Welcome to the forum and TTR ownership biggrin

Your plan seems a good one.

It might be worth making sure the carb has a real good clean and you try it out before changing jets as the originals may be OK. Just make sure you ream the pilot jet with a bit of copper wire or similar to get it absolutely clear as its this jet that can give slow running problems if not fully clear of dead petrol.

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thank you Brian! This forum is great; warm welcomes within a few minutes of my first post biggrin

The bike runs and idles nice after a thorough cleaning of the carb; only took it on a 10 minute ride around the neighborhood though. I figured I would need to rejet if removing baffling from exhaust and opening up the airbox due to the change in back pressure and airflow, but I might as well see how it runs prior to purchasing the jets. I ride off-road only and elevation differs depending on if I'm riding close to home or at my weekender cabin in the high desert (800/3500 foot elevation respectively). All the info is greatly appreciated!



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1481
Date:
Permalink  
 

Good to hear it's up and running it will be good to get out and ride with your brother 

I add a small amount of fuel system cleaner in the tank now and again  the stuff at auto stores for cars .

The bikes six years old now and haven't had any problems 



__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Do you guys think 3 feet of 1/4 fuel line will be enough to replace all the lines? I have a vent valve for the fuel cap

__________________


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 691
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hi JV and welcome into the forum, always something interesting here

Anyway are you talking about all the breather hoses ?

3 feet should be enough but I would get a bit extra just in case

Keep your eye's peeled for an XR fuel tank

can't remember which one fit's best, have a look around here, it's here somewhere

I got 200klm out of mine the other day before I hit the reserve, best I have ever done

So can you remove the baffels from the US versions ?

got to ask why would you would bother, extra noise won't give you any noticable extra power and only annoy other people

do the air box mod first and the rejet, it made mine run great, ticks over real slow now and no hesitation when taking off

Here's my airbox, I think this opening was to big, If I was doing it again I would start half that size first

something like this, on DR650's you only open up the box a little bit

maybe just take out the snorkel first, you can always make it bigger later.

 

 

IMG_3808_small_EDIT.JPG

 

since your in the US, check out these hand guards from www.highwaydirtbikes.com

 

jpg_00002.jpg

 

Have Fun

 

 



Attachments
__________________

2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks Steve!

Just curious; what jets did you use? I read that the mikuni jets are a little big and threaded differently and don't want to strip the carb. I found tekei jets from jetsrus but the are 3x the price and are sized weird and I don't know the equivalent to the mikuni 140 and 52.5. Awesome handguards by the way! Definitely want to get the 38 mm risers; did you have to get longer clutch/throttle cables?

airbox: I was going to start by removing a few rungs from the top of the snorkel and from inside the box; will work my way to fully removing if I don't feel a difference. Thanks for the picture!

Baffling: I just read this from a US TTR'er "BigCoopDawg" on the thumpertalk forum. I guess it's supposed to make the bike breathe a little better by less restriction but I don't know; just remove bolts on end of muffler and pull out. Ive usually picked up aftermarket exhausts on my bikes; but that was before the financial responsibility that come with marriage and a kid haha.

Fuel lines: yea I meant line from tank to carb and breather hoses off the carb

Tank: I read about the xr tank and zen brackets; I'm worried it might be a little big though. I ride in a lot of soft sand or rocky areas and feel a smaller tank would suit me better. The cheapest I have found an OEM tank was for $500 US no

Thanks for the recommendations and insight!

Dustin

 



__________________


Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 691
Date:
Permalink  
 

Sorry Can't tell you what jets, they were given to me and never actually recorded there type

check this out for an cheep exhaust mod if you can weld

I was going to do it, still might if I keep the TTR

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.492210867531305.1073741829.123637337721995&type=1

 

here's a stack of stuff on the jets

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t49951533/carb-jetting-information/?w_r=1424773050

and some search results to check out

https://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&as_q=ttr250.activeboard.com%3A+carburetor&as_epq=&as_oq=&as_eq=&as_nlo=&as_nhi=&lr=



__________________

2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 2644
Date:
Permalink  
 

Welcome Dustin and looking forward to hearing how you get on.smile

Steve



__________________

totallyttrs.com

 



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Starting to take her apart; figured I'd give her a nice go through while I'm waiting for parts to arrive in mail. Will post pics as I make my way through in case any one is interested smile



Attachments
__________________


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 290
Date:
Permalink  
 

That's a clean looking bike! No boot scuffs, no pipe discoloration, pristine grips. Any scuffs on the bottom? You may have a nearly-new motor there. Too bad about the sun damage but you can just keep it covered with mud :)

I'm not sure what you mean about the baffling in the muffler. I've seen people (kids I assume) on thumpertalk suggest you take out the spark arrestor, which of course would be a very bad idea. I've heard about removing the header restrictor (which would require cutting and welding) but I think that restrictor doesn't exist on the US model. If the idea is to just pull the 3 bolts on the tail pipe and remove the screen, that's the spark arrestor.

I like the stock jet set up: 137/50 OEM (not Mikuni); with a big hole in the air box as shown above, find your best needle setting. I still have the US stock pipe.

I suggest buying this thing too: ttr250.activeboard.com/t59989009/seal-leaking-oil/ It will leak soon. That might be another mileage clue: if it hasn't leaked yet it may not have many miles on it.

__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks for all the info plumas; havent ordered jets yet so i will see how it runs after cutting airbox. Does need new gaskets though. I will definetely check out the decompressor plug when I get home. It is clean, but it sat soo long I'm worried about all the gaskets and rubber haha. The baffling was connected at the chrome exhaust tip by one bolt and went into the spark arrestor screen. Took that out and it sounds nice and seems to have a little low end pep. Definetely keeping the spark arrestor; plus I ride desert and it's needed. Thanks again!

__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 11
Date:
Permalink  
 

Congrats on your find, they're a very fun bike. Defiantly puts a smile on my face.

__________________


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 290
Date:
Permalink  
 

JVOHV wrote:

The baffling was connected at the chrome exhaust tip by one bolt and went into the spark arrestor screen. 


 Interesting, I didn't find any such baffling on mine (actually you can see the chrome tip in my profile pic).  So I'm baffled but as long as it runs well!  There is a single hole in the chrome ring.



__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Yea it was mounted from that single hole on the exhaust tip ring by a hex nut. It was like a little 5 inch or so steel pipe, almost like a plug. Maybe aftermarket to reduce noise? I think I've seen them on the ttr125 or 220 but I could be wrong. Would have posted a pic but I tossed that sucker in the trash. Anyhow sounds and breathes much better now biggrin

I found this from a crf230 mod; third picture down is what it looked like

http://adventurebikerider.com/forum/23-bikes/209451-something-for-the-weekend-the-crf230-project-part-3-riding-it.html

 



__________________


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 290
Date:
Permalink  
 

Maybe a Calif emissions thing, thanks for the info

__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hi Brian, I read your write up on replacing a rear shock absorber on the ttr http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t61120758/replacing-a-rear-shock-absorber-bump-stop/

the bump stop on my ttr is not as bad as yours was, but it's dry and cracked. I don't have the tools (or ability) to remove the damper rod; so I am wondering if you think it would be suitable to cut the bump stop down the middle vertically, slide it on to the damper rod and use adhesive and/or steel hose clamp or something similar to "suture."

Also, is it normal for there to be a little bit of play at the top shock absorber mounting point or is this a sign that the bushings are worn?

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer and I appreciate the write up you did

Dustin



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 8557
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hi Dustin and apologies for the delay in replying disbelief

I had considered your suggested methods in the past but came to the conclusion that the first time I bottomed out the rear shock it would split the join. I could be wrong and maybe there isn't anything to lose by trying it?

The big problem I used to have was holding the chrome damper rod tight enough to undo the yoke without damaging it. The aluminium block trick works a treat. I have since talked to an owner who didn't have access to aluminium but could work with wood and fashioned his rod clamp from a small piece of oak and he said it worked a treat biggrin

I have seen shocks with no bump stop left at all and there didn't seem to have been metal to metal contact.

If the nut and bolt on the top shock mount are tight then the bearing is worn and is best replaced - a cheap and efficient way of doing it is to use Steve's offering - see http://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0294

I am pleased my write up helped!

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

TIP: For easy viewing bookmark the "Recent Posts" view - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/p/recent/ 



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 18
Date:
Permalink  
 

Brian, no worries and thank you for the info and suggestions. I figured it would be best to do it the correct way. The bump stop isn't too bad, just cracked and brittle. Maybe I will hold off for now and just fix the top shock mount. Will have to look into the wood block method; thank you again!

Dustin



__________________
Page 1 of 1  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.



Create your own FREE Forum
Report Abuse
Powered by ActiveBoard