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Post Info TOPIC: Powder coating a frame - checking and preparing the frame


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Powder coating a frame - checking and preparing the frame
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I'm thinking of stripping my TTR down and getting the frame powder coated, while it was all stripped back I was thinking of welding some material into the sidestand lug and re-drilling it out to remove the current slop.

What I was wondering was which things need masking off before coating?  I'm thinking that general threaded holes I can just chase out afterwards, but what other areas or faces are best left uncoated?



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Powder coating - frame masking requirements
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Hi Simon

Putting a spot of weld on the stand lug is an excellent idea!

If you take your frame to ICS at Cullompton for powder coating then (a) they know to mask the frame number, (b) they put special collars in the headstock so the steering head races don't get sand blasted and damaged, and (c) they put silicone plugs in all the threaded holes to protect them. 

Before I take the frame for powder coating, I pressure wash it to within an inch of its life and check thoroughly for any cracks in the usual places such as LH footpeg mount and the welds were the rear subframe meets the main frame.

If you have any worries about rust in the rear subframe upper loop then ask ICS to give you a bell after blasting and before coating so that you can inspect the frame and check any suspect areas with a toffee hammer or similar.

The only place I mask is the rear suspension linkage mounting. 

If you decide to go ahead then I have a frame here that has just been done so that you can see the colour plus I can lend you the bolt and collar to mask the suspension mount.

Brian



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So I can leave the headstock races in place?

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Powder coating a frame - checking and preparing the frame
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Yes biggrin



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I realise that there is a growing number of owners looking to do frame-up restorations so here is my two penn'orth regarding prepping a frame for the powder coaters.

The firm doing your frame should put some heatproof poly plugs in all the thread holes and will also have a way of covering the steering bearing races so that they don't get damaged by shot blasting. The firm I use will also mask the frame number on the steering head so that it doesn't get blasted into a blank as happened on my first attempt no 

OK, so what needs to be done?

Firstly, make absolutely sure you have taken off all the rubber grommets, the chain tensioner, stickers and power wash the frame to within an inch of its life!

From experience of various frames these are the points to check for cracks:

20160303_124600.jpg

20160303_124910.jpg

20160303_125340.jpg

20160303_125125a.jpg

 

Take the opportunity to help reduce stand floppiness by filling the worn area on the frame with weld and grinding back flat.

20160303_125201.jpg

 

There are some areas on the rear of the frame that can almost rust through on older TTRs so check these thoroughly. Perhaps see if you can cause a dent with a light ball pein hammer. If you find a suspect area you need to cut the frame, insert some well-fitting tube for strength and weld it up.  Better to do it now rather than have a nicely powder coated frame with rust holes. The shot blasting quickly shows up problems so an alternative is to ask the powder coaters if you can check the frame after shot blasting and before coating.

20160303_124806.jpg

 

Also check that the tail loop is approx. at the right angle. If the TTR has been looped at some stage it may be bent up. Simple to bend back down with a long bit of wood and the help of a mate.

20160303_125502.jpg

 

Check the number plate holder lugs are all in place and straight. If not, fix before powder coating.

20160303_164331.jpg

 

If a previous owner has used the TTR offroad without fitting a sump guard then the rails might be damaged. A light dent can usually be sorted by the use of heat and a hammer plus filling any remaining indentation with weld and filing back to the correct shape. The photo below is of one of my scrap frames and shows quite extreme damage.

20160303_133731.jpg

 

I have always used a sump guard so my frame rails were fine.

20160303_125140.jpg

 

Here is another photo from my scrap frame showing how the subframe rails had filled with dirt and had rusted through.

20160303_133752.jpg

 

Finally, it is worth protecting the internal faces of the linkage arm mounting. It is very difficult to clean off the weld if it gets in the holes and on the internal faces no

20160303_160019.jpg

 

A simple nut and bolt holding a collar in place is all that is needed.

20160303_160210.jpg

 

So now you have a frame ready to take for powder coating biggrin

20160303_164347.jpg



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