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Refurbing my 2004 TTR250
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Had this one from new. Photo is of a nice man from P&H Motorcycles delivering my eBay purchased brand new 2004 TTR250 in August 2004 biggrin

RX 002.jpg

 

This was when Yamaha were dumping all their European TTRs because, as I understand it, they would not meet forthcoming emission regulations. Dealers were given a very good deal which meant they could knock the TTRs out for about £3,600 and still make a sweet profit.

So, nearly 12 years down the line I am going to do a full restoration whilst, alongside, building a 325 to replace her.

It was strangely sad taking her apart this afternoon. Didn't seem right somehow. Surprised how good a condition she is in though but I am no good at half-hearted restos these days so it as to be the full Monty  disbelief.

20160301_152722.jpg

 

Got pulled away before I could finish but it's not going to take long to get down to the bare frame,

Brian

 



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It will be for sale when completed as two TTRs (one road and one for trail riding) plus the WR250R are enough for me wink

But I have some local interest already so they will have first refusal when it's done.

The big question is whether it will be a 250 or a 325 wink

Brian



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Interestingly and coincidentally I was emailed by a customer this afternoon who is looking to completely overhaul his two TTR250s and rebuild them from scratch over the next couple of years.

He asked for a total spares pack based on my experience of doing rebuilds over the years.

So I looked back through my rebuild schedules and the list below contains the common items I use following getting the frame shot blasted and powder coated. Over seven hundred quids worth but its a complete list and many of the parts will not be needed on every rebuild.

Decal sets, fork boots, panels, headlights, handguards, frame guards, etc., will be dependent on what condition the TTR being rebuilt is in. 

Brian

Major overhaul kit

Piston set

Valve Stem Oil seals

Head & base gasket set

Cylinder base O ring

Sprag clutch

Timing chain

Clutch friction plate set

Clutch spring set

Oil filter

Air filter

Linkage bearing & seal kit

Swing arm bearing & seal kit

Wheel bearings and seal kit – front

Wheel bearings and seal kit - rear

14T front sprocket

52T rear sprocket

Renthal R3 chain

Sprocket tab washer

Chain slider

Grips

Seat cover

Tail tidy

Number plate light

Reflector



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It's worth noting that Mr Yamaha puts a small oblong of quite thin sticky-backed plastic over the area where the cables rub on the steering stem of the frame - see photo below.

Just got to remember to put a bigger oblong of much thicker clear plastic there when I get to putting things back together.

20160301_152738.jpg



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Careful Steve, rebuilds become an addictionbiggrin

019.JPG

On the way to the powder coaters!

 

 

 

Fun though...

Ride safe,

Simon.



-- Edited by mossproof on Wednesday 2nd of March 2016 07:54:06 PM

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I am a day or two behind you Simon - my frame is going for powder coating tomorrow morning biggrin



-- Edited by TTRfan on Saturday 16th of July 2016 03:34:42 PM

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I trust you can do this eyes closed by now..! Congrats on finding the courage to strip her apart, looking forward to the finished line! Cheers

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There are always new challenges and surprises Squire wink

Today's surprise occurred when I dropped the frame off at the powder coaters. They coat the frame in metallic silver which is then covered with a coat of blue lacquer to get the original TTR colour.

Just the usual I said but Phil the Man says "No can do!". Apparently they had just used the last of the blue lacquer (which they had been using for ten years!!!) and can no longer source it cry

I fleetingly recalled Cubber urging me to "Go black" whilst discussing refurbs over a pint the other night and nearly succumbed but, instead, persisted with the metallic blue theme.

Phil then had a thought. He could now buy "Candy Blue" metallic powder by the 1kg but I would have to pay for the lot - £25 on top of the £100!    Apparently it will do about 4 frames so, what the hell, I went for it. Sorry Cubber, it's gonna be blue again biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Should be ready for picking up on Thursday which is "apprentice day" so you will have a bit of a road trip to collect it Steve but I can introduce you to Phil and Jason so you know where to go and who you are speaking to when you take Tim's frame up for powder coating wink

Brian



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20160310_170808.jpg

Got the frame back a few weeks ago but haven't had time to do anything with it yet what with skiving off on holiday and trying to get a 15 year old Jag through an MOT without paying a garage a fortune to do all the work!

Such a lovely day here in Devon but Mrs TTR has put me on gardening duty no



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rear shock.jpg

Slight progress - cleaned up the shock and fitted a new top bearing kit.

Very pleased at how well the shock cleaned up with just power washing - not bad for a 12 year old part that spends most of its working life in the Devonshire mud eh?

I think I will drop out the spring to test the action. Easier to do it now then having to sort out a problem later.

Brian



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Always a nice feeling to start bolting shiny clean bits back on. Much more satisfying than the cleaning/repairing/painting stage. Going to look good Brian, looking forward to seeing more,
Simon.

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Progress at last - the engine is in biggrin

Engine in 1.jpg

 

Got my current trail 325 in alongside to help place the wiring, clips, electrical items etc. Despite doing many rebuilds, it is never obvious to me disbelief

I am now in the cleaning/repairing/painting/plating stage that Simon alludes to but it is satisfying to bolt the shiny bits on when done - as he says biggrinbiggrin

Solenoid already fitted as that job is easier with the engine out.

Wiring loom, reg/rec and coil next I think.....

Brian



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More progress! Electrics in - just got to plumb in the ignition switch now.

Electrics done 3.jpg

Electrics done 4.jpg

Electrics done 5.jpg



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Forks in:

Forks in.jpg

 

Swingarm stripped and cleaned, bearings removed (easiest for a long time thank goodness - they can seem almost welded in sometimes), rubbed down and spraying in progress.

 Swingarm painted.jpg

 

Linkage arm bearings and seals removed (the lower shock bearing did NOT want to come out and needed heat to move it). Needs cleaning. An All Balls linkage bearing and seal kit was ordered this morning from Totally TTRs and is already on its way wink

Linkage waiting to be refurbished.jpg

 

Carb also being refurbished. A reminder to owners to drain the fuel when standing up your TTR for a while. The petrol in this carb had evaporated a while ago leaving a nasty residue. 

Carb apart for cleaning.jpg

Jets.jpg

25 minutes in the ultra-sonic cleaner got it all sorted though wink

Brian

 



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Blimey looking lovely Brian smile



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Thank you Steve!

Putting the carb back together today. 

The TTR carb can leak from the diaphragm cover after a rebuild and something I bang on about is the need to get the mating surfaces as clean and flat as possible. The easiest way to get the cover clean is to put some fine wet & dry (I don't get on with emery paper!) on a dead flat surface (I used the side of a battery) and rub the cover in a circular motion until it is shiny across the whole surface. It's then just a case of fitting it with new O rings - plenty cheap enough in Steve's shop - see here)

Before:

Diaphragm cover before.jpg

 

After:

Diaphragm cover after.jpg

 

The carb went back together with no traumas and it's now fitted to the bike. A good time to double check the one way valves in the breather pipes are working wink

It is a lot easier to fit the breather and overflow pipes correctly before the rear shock goes in.

Carb fitted.jpg



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Swingarm time!

I have already stripped all the bits and bobs off the swing arm, cleaned and sprayed it.

As a reminder, the drop link bush can be difficult to remove. Start it moving by undoing its bolt about quarter of an inch and then use a drift on the bolt head to start it moving. To prevent causing any damage to the bush's internal threads I then use a threaded bar to drift it the rest of the way out.

Drifting out link arm bush 1.jpg

Drifting out link arm bush 2.jpg

 

I use the excellent All Balls swing arm bearing and seal kit from Totally TTRs - see here

All Balls kit.jpg

 

Sorry to state the obvious but when fitting the bearings make sure you are pushing on the square edge - the curved edge goes into the swingarm first. I hope you can spot the difference in the photo below:

Swingarm bearings.jpg

 

Because I do quite a number of bearing replacements I had a couple of aluminium collars made up that fit inside the bearings to stop the needles falling out and has a lipped edge so that the bearings get pushed in just the right amount.

Swingarm bearing tool.jpg

Fitting the swingarm beraings.jpg

 

It makes fitting the bearings a breeze wink

Now to find and clean all the "extras", chain slider, chain guide, etc.

Brian



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What colour did you use on swing arm?

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I use Simonize Wheel Silver coz if its tough enough for wheels it'll last well on the swingarm wink

Swingarm now finished apart from the decals which I will fit later when I have decided which set to use.

It took me a lot longer than I remember - must be slowing down in my old age disbelief

Trying to work out if it is worth fitting it ahead of the linkage arm confuse

Swingarm ready to fit.jpg

 



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 RE. One way breather pipes Brian..i inadvertently rammed a screwdriver in one at the very beginning of project lemon and never got around to replacing it, does a damaged one effect the running much ??



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Hi Jason

The pipes running up and over the airbox are open and do the breathing.

The bottom pipes with the one-way valves are drains.

Your damaged one-way valve will only cause a problem if you go through deepish water which might allow some to be sucked up into the carb. Unlikely I know but Mr Yamaha doesn't wasted yen on these little niceties unnecessarily is my experience.

Brian



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Cheers Brian, decided to plod on with the Lemon. wink



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Well done Jason - you have put a lot of time, effort and money into the Lemon. You deserve to get out and ride it!

Been struggling today and a lot of time was taken up getting some damaged master cylinder cap bolts out and then cleaning up the master cylinder and caliper and bolting it all in and then bleeding it through. I used my sucky pump bleed tool which usually works a treat but despite pulling through a lot of fluid I didn't get a good lever so I have cable tied the lever back to the bars and hopefully any residual air will work its way out overnight.

I will pick up a master cylinder repair kit from Lisa at Totally TTRs tomorrow just in case.

I took the opportunity of fitting some stainless Allen-headed cap bolts so I hope the next owner doesn't get the problem I had!

Brake master cylinder.jpg

Persevering though. A lot of jobs are waiting on a linkage bearing kit but when collecting some parts from Totally TTRs tomorrow morning I might ask to blag another kit just in case Mr Courier lets me down wink



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The good news is that I now have a nice solid front brake biggrinbiggrin

I have not actually done much to the TTR today having instead been on a visit to TTR Towers to pick up some new parts for this build - and generally disrupt their operations wink

I now have some shiny essential new parts namely: linkage bearing and seal kit, front brake master cylinder rebuild kit, throttle tube, brake lever pivot bolt, speedo tab washer & plain washer and a rear number plate light. Not in the photo is a black Gripper seat cover.

20160628_134336.jpg



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A new day, a new dawn!

Managed to get quite a lot done yesterday but a lot of time has been wasted searching for parts - I really haven't organised this build very well!

An example is finding a tab washer for the front sprocket! Hard to believe I haven't got one kicking around on a shelf but, if I have, I can't find it so it'll be a case of scavenging one off a spare engine to keep the project moving disbelief

A bit of bad news is that there is a tiny leak on the banjo bolt going into the front brake master cylinder that I refurbished so I will need to drain the fluid, fit new or annealed washers and re-bleed the brake.

The battery I had put back for the TTR charged up quickly so I am about ready to start to fit and test switches etc. 

It's beginning to look more like a TTR now....

Nearly complete 1.jpg

Nearly complete 2.jpg

 



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All switches fitted and those that I can check are working fine. Need to get a rear mudguard and tail/brake light fitted so that I can test the front and rear brake switches.

Air filter cleaned, dried, oiled and fitted. Need to find an airbox cover now no

A slight diversion in that the new owner sent me some Symtec heated grip pads to fit. Bearing in mind the grips haven't yet been fitted it was a relatively simple job to stick the pads on the bars.

The photo below shows the pad fitted to the throttle tube. The instructions say fit so that the wires are at 3pm but that would have meant they fouled the brake lever as the throttle turned so I put them at 6pm instead.

Symtec heated grips - fitting 1.jpg

 

Trish's hair spray said "Firm Hold" so that was my choice to help ease the grips on biggrin

Symtec heated grips - fitting 2.jpg

 

It was such a quick and easy operation I only took a few photos.. The one below is the fitted grip on the clutch side.

Symtec heated grips - fitting 3.jpg

The switch mount is nice and simple - see here

Switch mount for heated grips 2.jpg

The wiring may be a bit more interesting so I will leave that for now. The priority is to get the TTR running and roadworthy for an MOT. wink

So rear mudguard and tail/brake light next.

Brian

 

 



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nice work/rebuild brian one day i might do mine just fitted rear wheel bearings but now found out there is slight play in the spacers that go into through bearings jeez they are expensive

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JOHNYBOY wrote:

just fitted rear wheel bearings but now found out there is slight play in the spacers that go into through bearings jeez they are expensive


A badly grooved spacer will let water into the bearings and kill them in no time. For the seals to work they have to be running on a flat surface. In the long run you will save money by fitting new spacers wink

Regarding my rebuild, the tail light and brake lights work! Needed to fit a new bulb to get a tail light though...

Brian



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Speedo strap and clutch perch.jpg

 

Game on biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Received a very welcome package from Martyn (TTRHead) just now - thank you very much Martyn - just the job!!!

Brian



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Decal time this morning!

I had a nice D&D Graphics kit in the cupboard and have put them to good use. Here are some photos of the rear mudguard, swingarm and fork leg decals. Just the tank and side panels to go.

(PS to Boz - sorry mate but the beautiful Motad exhaust is just on temporarily)

D&D rear mudguard decals V1 1.jpg

D&D rear mudguard decals V1 2.jpg

D&D swingarm decals 1.jpg

D&D swingarm decals 2.jpg

 

D&D fork decals 1.jpg

D&D fork decals 4.jpg

 



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I realised this morning that the TTR was still in MOT so taxed it ready for a test ride.

Tank and re-covered seat (in black as Boz requested) fitted along with the re-plated footpegs along with a headlight off my 325. This has a bag fitted so I can carry some tools - just in case.....

I think the footpegs look quite good and will stand up to use a lot better than if sprayed.

Footpegs 1.jpg

Footpegs 2.jpg

 

Slight issue with a leak on the fuel tap as I had pinched the little O ring when putting it back together after checking the seal disbelief

Fortunately I still had a spare new one which stopped the leak.

So after pumping the tyres to road pressures for running in the engine and a few last minute adjustments I took it up to the garage for fuel. Ran sweetly - only needed to adjust the tick over. There is more travel on the rear brake pedal than I like but that will be a simple adjustment.

A few little bits to do such as the side panels, fit a sump guard, handguards and a decent sidestand and it should be ready for an MOT biggrin

20160707_154851.jpg

20160707_154902.jpg

 

Well chuffed biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Brian



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Gorgeous Brian! Shame to get it dirty.
MOT'd my own project today ready to get reg docs sorted...
Simon.

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MOT successful and no advisories biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Just need to run it in between the showers now.....



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Looks excellent Brian, great job!

 



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Looks great Brian, excellent job. The information you have posted over the years on here is just priceless really.

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Bri

 Bozz is a lucky boy indeedsmile



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Pretty nearly finished! I think the D&D Graphics kit is spot on and the black seat sets it all off nicely.

The mirror is a temporary fixture as I like to know what is following me wink

20160714_115737.jpg

20160714_122149.jpg

20160714_115822.jpg

20160714_122437.jpg



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Summary of the rebuild:

Complete nut and bolt rebuild starting with a powder coated frame

Newly built 325 engine using the Thumper Racing big-bore kit.

New parts fitted:

  1. Timing chain
  2. Sprag clutch
  3. Aluminium decompressor plug
  4. Renthal Dakar bars
  5. Totally TTRs long clutch and throttle cables made by Venhill
  6. Polisport wrap-around handguards and grips
  7. Seat cover
  8. Front mudguard
  9. Motrax Micro Fairing rear indicators and Totally TTRs small front indicators
  10. WRF headlight unit
  11. D&D full graphics kit
  12. “Totally TTRs" stainless steel tail tidy and number plate light
  13. Swingarm bearings
  14. Linkage and lower shock bearing and seals

Also fitted are a Totally TTRs bashplate and rear disc guard, Works Design frame guards, and re-plated wide footpegs (from the earlier OE model).

The front forks have had their oil replaced with 7.5 weight oil as requested by the new owner.

Apart from the WRF headlight unit and the graphics kit, all new and replacement parts were sourced from Totally TTRs - thanks Steve!

Brian



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Nicesmile

I do like that headlightsmile You have made a truly great totallyttrs rebuild there Bri.

Steve



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Looks good.

Are those frame protectors available in the shop?

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Yes we have some in stocksmilesmile

 

http://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectID=7438612

 

Ta Steve

 

 



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The original exhaust for the TTR is in great condition with only a bit of surface rust so I cleaned it up and sprayed it. I fitted a new graphite gasket along with a Totally TTRs stainless steel trim

I didn't pre-bend the trim enough to make it an easy fit so had to resort to using a big Jubilee clip to clamp it up tight for riveting. It made the job a whole lot easier bit there definitely needs to be a bit more of a "curl" on the ends next time!

Exhaust collar 1.jpeg

 

It sets the exhaust off nicely I think.

Exhaust collar 2.jpg



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Snags in the rebuild.

No full rebuild can go 100% right - especially when using as many of the original parts as possible.

I am trying to remember them all but here are a selection:

Oil leak. Whenever I do a rebuild, I put clean newspaper under the TTR after a run so check for any oil leaks. I had a leak on this TTR that took a bit of finding and fixing. I first of all thought it might be the oil seal on the casing behind the front sprocket. By removing the chain cover, I was able to see it wasn't from there. I then thought it was the generator cover gasket but by continually wiping all surfaces and checking with a dry blue tissue (which goes dark when it gets oil on it) after a ride, I could see that it was coming from the starter area. The culprit turned out to be the banjo bolt on the oil feed pipe just below the shock reservoir. Tightening the bolt didn't fix it so I fitted a pair of new washers. No good. After a couple more tries, I cured it by fitting a different banjo bolt (even though nothing obviously wrong with the old one!) and the best pair of old copper washers I could find and annealing them before fitting. A real pain as it involved removing the header pipe and shock reservoir each time cry

Leaking brake unions. I fitted a different front brake hose and had the devil's own job getting a 100% seal on both the top and bottom banjo bolts. A real messy job and a lot of wasted brake fluid. New washers  (plus annealing them) eventually cured the leaks.

Sticking front brake.  First time I have come across this but when the TTR was up on the stand, the front wheel wouldn't spin freely. I solved it by taking off the caliper, popping out the pistons and refitting them with a liberal coating of brake fluid. Let's face it, I had plenty of "old" clean fluid to spare! Thank goodness for my suction brake bleeder hmm

Rear brake pedal adjustment. Again this was a first for me. I used all of the adjuster and the pedal was still travelling too far. The cure was to bleed the brake which brought the pedal right up and I was able to regain most of the adjustment. I have not ever had to bleed a rear brake before. So far so good as the pedal has stayed where I put it and the brakes are still good.

Sprag clutch. The sprag slips occasionally on starting up from cold. The engine shuts down without clunking but I am wondering whether the new sprag could be faulty or there is wear on the gear 3 boss that I hadn't noticed in my check. I can't afford to take any chances as the TTR is going quite a way away with its new owner so I have a new sprag and gear 3 on order from Totally TTRs and will fit them as soon as I can get them

That's all I can remember at the moment!

Brian



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I found the problem with the sprag clutch. A tooth fell out when I took it off the flywheel. Its little spring retainer tab had broken. Fortunately I found the tab stuck to the magnetic side of the flywheel. The boss on Gear 3 looked absolutely fine but I had picked up a new one from Steve this morning so I fitted it along with the new sprag to be sure to be sure to be sure!

Gear 3.jpeg

 

I had also remembered to pick up a new magnetic Gold Plug from Steve so fitted that whilst the TTR was on its side.

Gold Plug.jpeg

 

Started the TTR a few times and its perfect - phew biggrin

Nearly done 200 miles on it having ridden it up to see Steve this morning and coming back home the long way round. I am starting to give it some surges of extra throttle and it seems like the carb is OK but I won't know for sure until I can give it some sustained WOT.

Brian

 



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Beautiful brian Welldone 



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As an afterthought, I secured the handguard extensions on the Polisport handguards with small cable ties as they can go AWOL in an off. A simple 5 minute job.

handguard extension securing 1.jpg

handguard extension securing 2.jpg



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wish mine looked that clean...

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93 TTR - 250, 33mm FCR Keihin flatslide, modded airbox, performance filter, yzf silencer, plastic fuel tank, 13-52 gearing.



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Good tip Brismile



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Boz took delivery of the 325 yesterday and he looked quite pleased with it!

DSCF7811.JPG

 

Worshipping the TTRmeister!!!

DSCF7814.JPG

 

Deal done then - just as well as otherwise Boz wouldn't have had a bike to ride wink

DSCF7815.JPG

 

The 325 is still in need of careful running as it has only done just over 200 miles on the new engine. But Boz took good care of it although it was a bit of a shock seeing it covered in mud at the end of the first lane!

The bike ran faultlessly and the only running repair needed was to fit a new rear exhaust mounting bolt after the original debunked somewhere in the first lane no

That is the last full rebuild I will do so enjoy it Boz!

Brian



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