A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Interestingly and coincidentally I was emailed by a customer this afternoon who is looking to completely overhaul his two TTR250s and rebuild them from scratch over the next couple of years.

He asked for a total spares pack based on my experience of doing rebuilds over the years.

So I looked back through my rebuild schedules and the list below contains the common items I use following getting the frame shot blasted and powder coated. Over seven hundred quids worth but its a complete list and many of the parts will not be needed on every rebuild.

Decal sets, fork boots, panels, headlights, handguards, frame guards, etc., will be dependent on what condition the TTR being rebuilt is in. 

Brian

Major overhaul kit

Piston set

Valve Stem Oil seals

Head & base gasket set

Cylinder base O ring

Sprag clutch

Timing chain

Clutch friction plate set

Clutch spring set

Oil filter

Air filter

Linkage bearing & seal kit

Swing arm bearing & seal kit

Wheel bearings and seal kit – front

Wheel bearings and seal kit - rear

14T front sprocket

52T rear sprocket

Renthal R3 chain

Sprocket tab washer

Chain slider

Grips

Seat cover

Tail tidy

Number plate light

Reflector

Careful Steve, rebuilds become an addiction

On the way to the powder coaters!

 

 

 

Fun though...

Ride safe,

Simon.

-- Edited by mossproof on Wednesday 2nd of March 2016 07:54:06 PM

I trust you can do this eyes closed by now..! Congrats on finding the courage to strip her apart, looking forward to the finished line! Cheers

Got the frame back a few weeks ago but haven't had time to do anything with it yet what with skiving off on holiday and trying to get a 15 year old Jag through an MOT without paying a garage a fortune to do all the work!

Such a lovely day here in Devon but Mrs TTR has put me on gardening duty 

Always a nice feeling to start bolting shiny clean bits back on. Much more satisfying than the cleaning/repairing/painting stage. Going to look good Brian, looking forward to seeing more,
Simon.

More progress! Electrics in - just got to plumb in the ignition switch now.

Blimey looking lovely Brian 

Swingarm time!

I have already stripped all the bits and bobs off the swing arm, cleaned and sprayed it.

As a reminder, the drop link bush can be difficult to remove. Start it moving by undoing its bolt about quarter of an inch and then use a drift on the bolt head to start it moving. To prevent causing any damage to the bush's internal threads I then use a threaded bar to drift it the rest of the way out.

 

I use the excellent All Balls swing arm bearing and seal kit from Totally TTRs - see here

 

Sorry to state the obvious but when fitting the bearings make sure you are pushing on the square edge - the curved edge goes into the swingarm first. I hope you can spot the difference in the photo below:

 

Because I do quite a number of bearing replacements I had a couple of aluminium collars made up that fit inside the bearings to stop the needles falling out and has a lipped edge so that the bearings get pushed in just the right amount.

 

It makes fitting the bearings a breeze 

Now to find and clean all the "extras", chain slider, chain guide, etc.

Brian

I use Simonize Wheel Silver coz if its tough enough for wheels it'll last well on the swingarm 

Swingarm now finished apart from the decals which I will fit later when I have decided which set to use.

It took me a lot longer than I remember - must be slowing down in my old age 

Trying to work out if it is worth fitting it ahead of the linkage arm 

 

Hi Jason

The pipes running up and over the airbox are open and do the breathing.

The bottom pipes with the one-way valves are drains.

Your damaged one-way valve will only cause a problem if you go through deepish water which might allow some to be sucked up into the carb. Unlikely I know but Mr Yamaha doesn't wasted yen on these little niceties unnecessarily is my experience.

Brian

Well done Jason - you have put a lot of time, effort and money into the Lemon. You deserve to get out and ride it!

Been struggling today and a lot of time was taken up getting some damaged master cylinder cap bolts out and then cleaning up the master cylinder and caliper and bolting it all in and then bleeding it through. I used my sucky pump bleed tool which usually works a treat but despite pulling through a lot of fluid I didn't get a good lever so I have cable tied the lever back to the bars and hopefully any residual air will work its way out overnight.

I will pick up a master cylinder repair kit from Lisa at Totally TTRs tomorrow just in case.

I took the opportunity of fitting some stainless Allen-headed cap bolts so I hope the next owner doesn't get the problem I had!

Persevering though. A lot of jobs are waiting on a linkage bearing kit but when collecting some parts from Totally TTRs tomorrow morning I might ask to blag another kit just in case Mr Courier lets me down 

A new day, a new dawn!

Managed to get quite a lot done yesterday but a lot of time has been wasted searching for parts - I really haven't organised this build very well!

An example is finding a tab washer for the front sprocket! Hard to believe I haven't got one kicking around on a shelf but, if I have, I can't find it so it'll be a case of scavenging one off a spare engine to keep the project moving 

A bit of bad news is that there is a tiny leak on the banjo bolt going into the front brake master cylinder that I refurbished so I will need to drain the fluid, fit new or annealed washers and re-bleed the brake.

The battery I had put back for the TTR charged up quickly so I am about ready to start to fit and test switches etc. 

It's beginning to look more like a TTR now....

 

nice work/rebuild brian one day i might do mine just fitted rear wheel bearings but now found out there is slight play in the spacers that go into through bearings jeez they are expensive

 

Game on 

Received a very welcome package from Martyn (TTRHead) just now - thank you very much Martyn - just the job!!!

Brian

I realised this morning that the TTR was still in MOT so taxed it ready for a test ride.

Tank and re-covered seat (in black as Boz requested) fitted along with the re-plated footpegs along with a headlight off my 325. This has a bag fitted so I can carry some tools - just in case.....

I think the footpegs look quite good and will stand up to use a lot better than if sprayed.

 

Slight issue with a leak on the fuel tap as I had pinched the little O ring when putting it back together after checking the seal 

Fortunately I still had a spare new one which stopped the leak.

So after pumping the tyres to road pressures for running in the engine and a few last minute adjustments I took it up to the garage for fuel. Ran sweetly - only needed to adjust the tick over. There is more travel on the rear brake pedal than I like but that will be a simple adjustment.

A few little bits to do such as the side panels, fit a sump guard, handguards and a decent sidestand and it should be ready for an MOT 

 

Well chuffed 

Brian

MOT successful and no advisories

Just need to run it in between the showers now.....

Looks great Brian, excellent job. The information you have posted over the years on here is just priceless really.

Pretty nearly finished! I think the D&D Graphics kit is spot on and the black seat sets it all off nicely.

The mirror is a temporary fixture as I like to know what is following me 

Nice

I do like that headlight You have made a truly great totallyttrs rebuild there Bri.

Steve

Yes we have some in stock

 

http://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectID=7438612

 

Ta Steve

 

 

Snags in the rebuild.

No full rebuild can go 100% right - especially when using as many of the original parts as possible.

I am trying to remember them all but here are a selection:

Oil leak. Whenever I do a rebuild, I put clean newspaper under the TTR after a run so check for any oil leaks. I had a leak on this TTR that took a bit of finding and fixing. I first of all thought it might be the oil seal on the casing behind the front sprocket. By removing the chain cover, I was able to see it wasn't from there. I then thought it was the generator cover gasket but by continually wiping all surfaces and checking with a dry blue tissue (which goes dark when it gets oil on it) after a ride, I could see that it was coming from the starter area. The culprit turned out to be the banjo bolt on the oil feed pipe just below the shock reservoir. Tightening the bolt didn't fix it so I fitted a pair of new washers. No good. After a couple more tries, I cured it by fitting a different banjo bolt (even though nothing obviously wrong with the old one!) and the best pair of old copper washers I could find and annealing them before fitting. A real pain as it involved removing the header pipe and shock reservoir each time   POST EDIT - I would now use Dowty washers instead!

Leaking brake unions. I fitted a different front brake hose and had the devil's own job getting a 100% seal on both the top and bottom banjo bolts. A real messy job and a lot of wasted brake fluid. New washers  (plus annealing them) eventually cured the leaks.

Sticking front brake.  First time I have come across this but when the TTR was up on the stand, the front wheel wouldn't spin freely. I solved it by taking off the caliper, popping out the pistons and refitting them with a liberal coating of brake fluid. Let's face it, I had plenty of "old" clean fluid to spare! Thank goodness for my suction brake bleeder 

Rear brake pedal adjustment. Again this was a first for me. I used all of the adjuster and the pedal was still travelling too far. The cure was to bleed the brake which brought the pedal right up and I was able to regain most of the adjustment. I have not ever had to bleed a rear brake before. So far so good as the pedal has stayed where I put it and the brakes are still good.

Sprag clutch. The sprag slips occasionally on starting up from cold. The engine shuts down without clunking but I am wondering whether the new sprag could be faulty or there is wear on the gear 3 boss that I hadn't noticed in my check. I can't afford to take any chances as the TTR is going quite a way away with its new owner so I have a new sprag and gear 3 on order from Totally TTRs and will fit them as soon as I can get them

That's all I can remember at the moment!

Brian

Beautiful brian Welldone 

wish mine looked that clean...