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The TTR250 FAQ web pages -> TTR250 -> Repairs and maintenance -> Replacing the bulbs on the original TTR250 number plate light
Post Info TOPIC: Replacing the bulbs on the original TTR250 number plate light
TTRfan


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Replacing the bulbs on the original TTR250 number plate light
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Cripes - what a job that turned out to be no

Both bulbs on the number plate unit had blown. If one was still working I wouldn't have bothered doing the job.

As is common on older TTRs that have been subject to mud etc, both nuts were fully seized on and weren't going to budge without special treatment cry

I skimmed the tops of the protruding bolt heads down to the nuts with a Dremel and left soaking in WD40. There wasn't enough room to get in to cut a side of the nut off to free it.

I tried undoing the nuts with my Bosch cordless impact driver - no good.

I tried a bit of heat with a pencil-flame butane torch but the nuts are too close to other rubber and plastic bits for that to be effective.

The temptation is to apply more force but when I have tried that in the past the result is that the plastic support the bolt breaks off - see a couple of examples of my previous handiwork below disbelief

Taillight_disassembly1a.jpg

 

I puzzled over what other methods I could use and came up with the idea of drilling down through the side of the nut and it worked!

Taillight_disassembly1b.jpg

Taillight_disassembly2.jpg

 

And with a bit of tapping on the open "cuts" with a small hammer and sharp chisel, the nuts gave up and came off biggrin

Taillight_disassembly3.jpg

 

I cleaned the components up, fitted new capless bulbs and job done!

Taillight_disassembly 007.jpg

 

The other TTR component that it is easy to damage because of the rusted on nuts is the brake/tail light unit. I will use this technique on those in the future!

Brian

 



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Cubber


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That's just the DRILL, Sir. biggrinbiggrin

You must have a very steady hand.

If I'd done that the bike would be a lot lighter and holier than Sunday!

Martyn



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locky


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A job well done. I removed my number plate light the other day and i was lucky, the nuts were very tight to come off, i got them to turn slightly then loads of plus gas and just kept working them slowly off the thread. I've used your method to drill nuts off before but it never entered my head this time.

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2004 TTR250. White Brothers E series exhaust, modded airbox, rejetted, 13/48 c&s & many more mods..
BM Steve


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I must have been lucky with my TTR, I've never had a single nut or bolt jam or break

Oh, except for that pesky drain plug in the carb, got that out though and cut a new head into it with a fine file

works great now, I now keep it permanently covered in grease to keep out any water so it won't stick again

I crack it loose now and then just in case



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 
Fladdem


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Loads of bolts on mine have all started snapping must be the age finally catching up with her. The most recent was the one that holds the petrol tank down, tried to drill out to no avail, so just tapped a smaller thread inside the remaining bolt. Hahaha! Oh well, finally time to tart the old TTR up now. Got my hands on a CRM 250 to tide me over until I can get the Yam finished and back on the road.

How does a full sized number plate fit on there? The red rear reflector on mine keeps mashing a hole in the plate, on the bottom line, then mud gets in and trashes the number plate. Do you just fit half sized number plates?

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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
TTRfan


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Try one of the little round reflectors Adam - take off your existing reflector and stick one on a bottom corner of your number plate. My MOT man is more than happy with them wink

Reflectors.jpg



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