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New 325 project
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I am not 100% convinced that my idea of swapping over the handlebars with everything still attached was the best idea.

The added complications were heated grips and headlight switch.

Handlebars etc off.jpg

 

Anyways up, I grabbed a pair of 30mm risers to get a bit of extra height which definitely needs a longer clutch cable and probably throttle cables as well. Will check that out and feed back.

Despite giving the donor TTR a thorough power wash before stripping it, there was still quite a bit of cleaning to be done on the wires and cables.

Getting there:

20151207_205805.jpg

 

Whilst cleaning the cables I was reminded of the method I used to wire up the light switch which was to splice the switch into the yellow wire with the red stripe - see below:

Light switch solution.jpg

To be continued..........

 



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I am not following a set sequence in the build and am being a bit random. I decided to swap over the stainless steel tail tidy and number plate light. I thought this would be a quick win but, as usual, there is always something to catch me out. 

This time it was stripped threads in the frame brackets requiring Helicoiling and a number plate light bulb blown. The Helicoiling was quick and simple but you have to strip the number plate light apart to get at the bulbs no so whilst doing this it was an opportunity to thoroughly clean all the parts before re-assembly which included replacing a very rusty backing plate.

It is proving very useful having the donor bike alongside which makes a job like fitting the correct sized wiring clips much easier.

wiring clips.jpg

 

"Simple" job done:

wiring clips new.jpg

 

Carb and airbox next.



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Managed to put some more time on the project today. Stripped out the airbox and Motad exhaust for power washing.

I had one of the first Motads which was unpolished.  I think they look so much better polished and, once I have got it cleaned up, will take it to our exhaust fabricator to get a quote for polishing it.

The carb has been cleaned, stripped, blown through and rebuilt with a new diaphragm and small O rings, plus a new carb float bowl gasket. The old float bowl gasket looked a bit flattened and I don't want to put everything back together just to find it leaked.

I cleaned off the diaphragm cover using some fine wet & dry on a dead flat surface to give it the best possible chance of giving a petrol tight seal on re-assembly.

I also made sure the float bowl drain screw would come out - it did! - and it's gone back in with a smear of copper grease.

20151213_170455.jpg



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Senior Member

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lookng good brian must be one of the best looking ttr in england

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Super Guru

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I decided to fit bar risers as well as having Dakar High bars so this meant fitting new long throttle and clutch cables. Looking forward to seeing what that does for riding comfort!

20160210_125208.jpg

 

Engine bolts tightened, carb, battery box, battery and airbox fitted. 

Airbox fitted.jpg

Airbox fitted.jpg

 

Lots of fiddly bits left to do - footpegs, brake and gear levers, chain and front sprocket, panels, rear mudguard, tank etc etc etc biggrinbiggrin

Brian



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I need to have two working trail bikes for the A2E event this weekend so abandoned the rebuild and adopted a quick and dirty solution.

I took out the new 325 engine I had built (no chance to run it in properly) and replaced it with my old 325 engine - a known quantity that I can rely upon.

Other than a newly polished Motad, just about everything else that went on was from my old 325 - wheels, panels, tank, seat, footpegs, etc.

A cop out but at least its complete and test driven now wink

I can come back to it to do the cosmetic stuff.

Brian

Bike complete.jpg



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Nicesmile

Should be  few TTR's at the A2Esmilesmile



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All MOTd now with just one advisory on bottom shock joint but am happy with just that!

I have now finished wiring it up to provide two power supplies at the handlebars - one constant live bypassing the ignition switch and one switched live. I will probably use the constant live for the SatNav/GPS.

The TTR wasn't running quite right at low revs so I suspected the usual culprit, the pilot jet, to be partially blocked. The carb hadn't been used for a while. Stripped out the carb and, yes, there was a bit of crud in the pilot. This is where I found my new favourite tool - a piece of twist tie that fits the pilot jet's hole perfectly biggrinbiggrin

Pilot jet reamer.jpg

Whilst the carb was out I cleaned up the diaphragm cap on a flat piece of wet & dry and fitted two new small O rings which has cured a slight petrol weep at that point.

The choke was also tight so I cleaned off some deposits from the brass barrel and that is all fine now.

It is surprising how quickly you can get a carb off and on after doing it lots of times hmm

Put back on my tank and fender bags and am just about ready for Saturday!

Brian



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I had put my 325 back together in quite a rush and so it was left mechanically good but cosmetically challenged disbelief

I took the opportunity in the summer to smarten it up a bit. It is surprising what difference a set of new graphics can make biggrin

BEFORE:

Bike complete.jpg

 

AFTER:

New Enjoy graphics2 2.jpg

New Enjoy graphics2 1.jpg

New Enjoy graphics2 3.jpg

The only thing left to do was tidy up the engine.

To be continued wink



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The engine is now pretty much finished but I think it is worth mentioning a little wrinkle regarding the oil feed lines. Those who have the patience to read my lengthy rebuild and repair threads may recall problems with occasional oil leaks from the banjo bolts on the oil feed lines. Despite annealing the copper washers I have on occasions had to tighten the banjo bolts a little more than I would have liked to get a seal. This risks stripping the thread out of the alloy cases.

I now use Dowty washers instead of copper ones and, as well as being very oil tight, they never need annealing and don't require the banjo bolts being done up murder tight. Once the bolt is tight on the washer you know you have a seal biggrin

Dowty washers on oil lines.jpg



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OK - so my 325 engine is cleaned and sprayed and ready to fit back in BUT the space in the TTR is currently being taken up by a recently rebuilt 250cc standard engine that is on test for Totally TTRs so, please. someone buy it so that I can put my 325 back in wink

See here

Here are some pics of the 325 engine - just need to spruce up the oil cooler now. Just for interest, I tested the capacity of the oil cooler (genuine TTR one) which proved difficult and very messy! I reckon it holds about 75cc of oil.

20170114_170055.jpg

20170114_170102.jpg

20170114_170111.jpg

 

 

20170114_170210.jpg



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Super Guru

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Brian, that is a delight to look at and admire. 

Don't put it in a bike frame, make a rosewood plinth and stick it on your sideboard, Trish would understand. 

Martyn



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Super Guru

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Thank you Martyn!

Cleaned and sprayed the oil cooler and that's as far as I can go for now.

Before:

Oil cooler - before.jpg

Oil cooler - after.jpg

 

After:



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Looking good Brian. You and Steve in competition to finish first? My project bike's running the lanes but the paintscheme's not complete so it doesn't count

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I went out for a short trail ride last week and had an embarrassing incident when I filled up with petrol before the ride. I caught my boot on the rear mudguard as I got off to go and pay which resulted in me and the TTR ending up in an unseemly heap on the garage forecourt disbelief

I resolved there and then to refit a Totally TTRs lowering link before I took the bike out again!

The following is not a step by step guide which has already been done but just some reminders along the way.

Certain parts of the job are easier if the weight is taken off the suspension so I use an old tie down for this. It can be adjusted up and down easily as required.

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 1.jpg

 

As is usual for me  I turn a simple job into something complicated! I have had one of Steve's new shock absorbers on the shelf "just in case" for some time and, in a moment of sheer self indulgence, I decided now was the time to fit it biggrinbiggrinbiggrin. Absolutely nothing wrong with the existing shock but I just couldn't put up with walking past it crying out to be used| wink

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 7.jpg

 

It is possible to remove the top shock bolt from the airbox side (if it has been previously swapped around so the nut is on the RH side of the bike) by just dropping the frame side arm and dropping the airbox a tad.

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 2.jpg

 

To get the top link bolt out, I first remove the bolt and the tap it through using a bit of threaded bar screwed into the shaft so as not to damage the threads.

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 3.jpg

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 4.jpg

 

To remove the shock absorber feed it through the frame bottom end first:

 Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 5.jpg

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 6.jpg

 

I also decided to go the extra mile and strip out, clean, inspect and re-grease the link arm.  To get the bolt off the frame mount I found it is possible to get a 14mm socket on it by using a "wobble" extension bar.

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 8.jpg

 

To be able to get the bearing bolt out, you need to lift the swing arm as high as you can.

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 9.jpg

 

I was lucky and all the bearings, seals and collars were in good order so just need cleaning up, re-greasing and putting back after cleaning up the frame mount and its surrounding areabiggrin

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 10.jpg

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 11.jpg

 

Don't forget to make sure the drop link securing bolt's head fits between the ridges in the swingarm casting.

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 12.jpg

 

New shock fitted, linkage arm serviced and lowering link fitted.

Fitting lowering link and new shock absorber 13.jpg

 

Job done!

Brian

PS What else would I be doing? confuse 

 



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How did you fit 325 sleeve in barrel? Did you need to make bore bigger? Or was it straight forward (unpressing OEM sleeve and pressing 325)?

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Suggest you take a peek at the first post of this thread for an idea of the engineering required:

www.ttr250.activeboard.com/t56824181/325-kits-whats-involved-from-a-uk-perspective/

Basically press out old sleeve, bore out barrel, press in new sleeve and bore/hone to spec. Bore crankcases to accept larger sleeve where it sticks out below barrel. It needs to be done by a GOOD machinist or the barrel will crack between the fins and weep oil.

Hang about a while, I'm hoping for progress on the 350 soon...

Ride safe,

Simon.



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350 kit Improve Your Marriage with Woohoo! Power



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