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Post Info TOPIC: New 325 project


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It came to me in a dream..... and the dream was right! I ferreted through my shelves and discovered that I have the basic parts needed to build a new 325 engine biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

325_kit.jpg

 

So I have a re-sleeved and bored barrel to take the 325 Wiseco piston and, best of all, a pair of crankcases already bored for the oversize liner. 

Mwahaha biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Brian

biggrin



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with that engine, you may be able to climb even a straight wall of neighbour's house biggrinbiggrinbiggrin

-One question: is there any risk for engine overheat if run in summer temps?



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Robin has run his 325 in Morocco, the Sahara and Death Valley, USA, and hasn't had a problem with over heating.

However he has the added protection of an oil cooler.

Brian



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I split the bored crankcases and they needed a good clean out in the parts washer as there was some evidence of swarf from the boring. I need to be very careful with the cases as they are a gasketless fit so the mating surfaces need to be pristine.

I have new main bearings and the clutch shaft bearing in stock but need to order the other two. My supplier has the main output (sprocket) shaft bearing in stock but will have to order in the balancer shaft bearing so that will put me back a bit cry

I am not sure why these bearings had been taken out as they rarely cause problems and it would have been easy enough to have masked them up before boring the cases confuse

325_kit 008.jpg

 

Before I can split the cases on my donor gearbox, there was the small issue of a untidily welded up gear changer shaft! It wouldn't pull through without damaging the seal and bearing.

325_kit 004.jpg

 

A quick attack with the disc cutter and problem solved biggrin

325_kit 005.jpg

 

I have a good spare gear change shaft so that's not an issue.

Here are the donor gearbox cases opened.

325_kit 007.jpg

 

Apart from the gear change shaft, everything looks good on quick inspection. Each part will be cleaned and oiled before fitting so I will make the real check then.

Brian



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Following with great interest Brian.

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Hi Kimani - good to hear from you!

The project has stalled a tad as my new balancer shaft bearing is on back order cry

Meanwhile is there anything in particular you or any other owners would like to see me cover in detail?

Brian



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Hi Brian,

Awesome job, Id like to have one installed on mine someday :)

has anybody run a 325 on a Dyno, and if yes what were the figures?

I know that its early but I would like to follow in particular the rejetting part on this new project.


best regards Henry

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I ran mine on a dyno not long ago. The results are near the end of the thread on "325 kits from a UK perspective" in the modifications section. The rolling road is car sized rather than bike specific, and I was on Heidenau k60 tyres rather than road pattern. Don't know for sure how this might affect the results, but my main reason for the run was to check air/fuel ratios rather than power/torque, and unfortunately I didn't first test the original 250cc bike as a control. Might one day borrow a 250 to try on the same dyno if I can find a willing volunteer... I'm very happy with the result!

Ride safe,

Simon.



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I was getting a bit impatient waiting for the new balancer shaft bearing so made a start fitting the bearings I actually do have.

This is all the kit I needed: hot air gun, rubber and metal hammers, an old main bearing, and a large punch.

325_kit 009.jpg

The bearings had been in the freezer for a few days so were as "contracted" as they ever would be. I heated up the bearing housings (one at a time) well with the hot air gun and then gently started to tap in the bearings and get them level with the rubber hammer. I used the old main bearing as an interface between the new bearing and the metal hammer to get the new main bearings in without damage. The transmission bearings were started the same way and then tapped home with the punch.

DO NOT ever hit or use the centre of the bearing to drive it home as this will ruin the bearing!

I confess that I had envisaged it being a difficult job but it all went very easily - phew biggrin

325_kit 010.jpg

325_kit 011.jpg

 

Lets hope the other bearing arrives soon so that I can finish the job and get on with the build.

Brian

 



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The balancer shaft bearing arrived this morning so the build can continue biggrin

After fitting the new bearing, I dug out a crankshaft that I had reconditioned with a new big end and conrod. This is to give the new engine the best possible chance of longevity.

I used the large starter gear, 3/4" socket and the flywheel bolt over the LH side of the crankshaft to pull it through the main bearing as it is an interference fit. 

Engine assembly1.jpg

 

It is now a case of removing parts from the donor gearbox, cleaning and checking them and then fitting them to the 325 starting with the balancer shaft - making sure the punch marks were lined up.

Engine assembly2.jpg

Next up is to look through the manual again to make sure that I don't get caught out by being over confident disbelief

Brian



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I realised that I was missing the gearchange and transmission shaft oil seals so it was lucky I had them in stock. I have included the packets in the photo below to show the part numbers.

Engine assembly3.jpg

 

The installation of the gears was quite straightforward if a bit fiddly to get the selectors in place. 

Engine assembly4.jpg

 

I need to give the crankcase mating faces a final clean up along with the crankcase bolts and then think about bolting them together after covering both sides with some non-hardening flange seal.  But that can wait until tomorrow as its a critical part of the build and I don't want to rush it. 

Brian

 



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...covering both sides with some non-hardening flange seal...

Tomorrow, please take time to fully cover this part of topic: advantages over using a regular gasket, how to and how Not to do, what can go wrong, etc... wink



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sena wrote:

...covering both sides with some non-hardening flange seal...

Tomorrow, please take time to fully cover this part of topic: advantages over using a regular gasket, how to and how Not to do, what can go wrong, etc... wink


I will do that Sena!

The crankcases are sold as matched pairs and are designed by Yamaha to bolt together without a gasket but using sealant instead. It's a bit scary as you can't really test the seal is oil tight until everything is put back together and it would then be a lot of work to strip it all apart again. Thankfully I haven't had a problem so far and not heard of anyone else having experienced a leak.

All I managed to do today was to test fit the two cases together so that there aren't any surprises when I have the gasket seal on them! With a bit of jiggling they popped together nicely.

I then checked the bolts and found a couple of oddities. (UPDATE - I HAVE SINCE REALISED THAT THE CRANKCASE BOLTS FITTED TO MY 2004 ARE DIFFERENT TO THE EARLIER METAL TANK MODELS SO PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING DIAGRAM AND BOLT DETAILS REFER TO THE LATER PLASTIC TANK 4RR MODELS!) I want to make sure that I have all the right bolts in the right places so that they torque up properly. Don't want to strip any threads at this stage!

This is how far I have got and if anyone spots anything wrong please let me know.

Crankcase:

Crankcase bolts.jpg

 

Crankcase bolts data.jpg

 

Clutch and generator covers:

I have identified the bolts against the gaskets. The reference numbers are in the pink frames.

Clutch and generator covers.jpg

Clutch and generator covers bolts data.jpg

 

Brian

 



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My advice on putting the crankcases is to take your time! I will explain later.

Firstly make absolutely sure that you have the dots on the crankshaft/balancer cogs and gearchange shafts are lined up. Also, make sure that the two locating casing dowels are in place.

I smear flange sealant (I use Loctite 574) on the crankcase mating faces.

Engine assembly5.jpg

 

Then, with the half with the gears in at the bottom, fit the cases together. A bit of wiggling may be required but no force should be needed.

If the sealant was spread correctly then there should be a bead of it squeezed out around the whole of the mating faces.

Engine assembly6.jpg

 

Turn the gearbox over and fit the crankcase bolts and torque them up to 10Nm.

Engine assembly7.jpg

 

I then use some blue workshop paper soaked in clutch/brake cleaner to wipe off the surplus sealant.

I have had some extra practice doing the job this morning as I forgot to do the final checks before putting the cases together. I got as far as torquing up the bolts before a nagging doubt made me decide to split the cases to check disbelief

Of course, everything was as it should be but it put my mind at rest smile

Hopefully that was what you wanted Sena?

Brian



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Thanks



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Very Cool indeed Brian. And I'm soooo jealous!

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Crikey - has it really been 10 days since I did any work on the project disbelief

I had a bit of time spare this afternoon so thought I would crack on but two things conspired against me making much progress.

Firstly I seem to have lost/mislaid the original stopper lever and wasted about half an hour fruitlessly searching for it before giving up and "borrowing" one from another box of engine parts. I am sure it will turn up now though evileye

I put a note on the photo below to remind anyone doing this job not to forget to fit the washer underneath the shift lever assembly. I will leave you to figure out why but, suffice it to say that it's a lot of disassembling to retrofit it if you accidentally leave it out........

Engine assembly8.jpg

 

Secondly, I need to locate a kickstart assembly for the engine and it looks like I am going to have to rob it off a complete engine cry

Also, I see the previous owner of the crankcases took the kickstart spring retaining pin out before getting the cases bored. Can't see why they did that unless it was because it protrudes above the level of the crankcase surface. The engineer who did the boring may have needed a completely flat surface to bolt up the crankcases solidly before boring. I am surprised to see how cleanly the pin came out as it is an interference fit in those splines i.e. knocked in with a hammer. Tried getting one out once and won't bother trying that again no

Engine assembly9.jpg

 

Brian



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So whats the plan for the engine when finished ? Do you have a TTR ready to accept it ?

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Got a newly powder-coated frame with swing arm and forks already fitted ready to take the engine. It will become my own day-to-day trail bike and the 325 engine unit from my current traillie TTR will be put back for use in my YZ-based project bike. 

One of the excuses I have for the hold up is that I have to make my mind up as to whether the new 325 engine needs a kick start. If it does then I have to rob another engine for the parts. Hmmmmmmm........

Brian



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Interested to know how often people have to resort to the kicker? In hot conditions on the VINCE last year my old battery failed in the morning. From cold she wouldn't go with the kickstart and I had to push her anyway!
What's your kickstart history like Brian?
Simon.

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Although my use of the kickstart is rare Simon, I decided that discretion is the better part of valour so decided to fit one to this engine.

It slowed me down a bit as I had to come to terms with stripping out a kickstart from one of my good spare engines cry

Now done though and it was useful doing the removal and fit in one session so that I could make sure all the washers etc were present and fitted in the right place!

Kickstart fitted.JPG

 

The next task was to fit the primary drive gear and, to make sure I get it 100%, I looked it up in the workshop manual and I am glad I did as I nearly fitted the key in upside down! This is what it is supposed to look like:

primary drive gear assembly.jpg

I remembered to fit the timing chain and slipper BEFORE the clutch basket - just smile

I always fit new timing chains to my rebuilds as they work hard and can be the cause of noise. For some reason I put the old ones back on the shelf - just in case - so I was interested to compare them with the new chain. I simply slotted them over a screwdriver to compare lengths and therefore the amount of stretch.

Timing chain comparison 1.JPG

Timing chain comparison 2.JPG

 

I realise that the screwdriver wasn't level but this isn't supposed to be a scientific method but it was good enough to see that 3 of the chains were ready for the bin!

It was interesting to see the amount of wear on the side plates of the stretched chains. I hope it can be seen from the following photo.

Timing chain comparison 3.JPG

 

New chain, slipper and primary gear in place ready for the clutch basket to be fitted.

Primary drive gear fitted.JPG

 

Using my trusty gear jammer, the clutch and primary drive gear nuts were torqued up to 75Nm and 80Nm respectively.

Torquing up.JPG

 

Next up is to bend over the tabs on the tab washers.

I have given in and put the heater on in the workshop to make it more inviting and I am hoping that I can speed up the rebuild a bit now. Famous last words!

Brian



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Bent the tabs on the tab washers over on the clutch nut and primary drive gear. The clutch one is always difficult because of access cry

Next were a few "don't forget"s.

Replace the clutch push rod and ball bearing.

Clutch push rod and ball bearing.JPG

 

After fitting the clutch basket, adjust the clutch actuating arm so that the pointer lines up with the casting mark on the casing. Difficult to see when the engine is in the frame.

Clutch arm.JPG

 

Yep - the eagle eyed may have spotted the return spring was the wrong side of the arm but that was easily rectified.

Fitted the cleaned gauze oil filter - only goes in one way so you can't get it wrong unless you force it.

Gauze filter.JPG

 

Now ready to replace the cover.

Ready for cover.JPG

 

The filter cover O rings looked a bit tired so I replaced them with new.

O rings.JPG

 

And it was all going so well........ until I torqued up the cover bolts and the last one wouldn't tighten no

So it was off with the cover again to fit a thread insert.

I have had quite a few of these strip out so am familiar with doing the job cry

This is the culprit.

Stripped thread.JPG

 

I use Recoil kits as they do the job nicely and are a better price than some others.

Recoil fitting.JPG

 

That's it for today!

Brian



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Very good. Well detailed, photographed and very informative, thanks Brian.

You don't do work for Haynes, do you? confusebiggrin

Martyn

 



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Great progress, it reminded me to add the filter cover O rings to my next order.

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Great write up and pictures Brian.

I'm intrigued "...and the 325 engine unit from my current traillie TTR will be put back for use in my YZ-based project bike"

Is there a thread somewhere on the YZ?  TTR reliability and simplicity, extra ooomph from the big bore, and a better suspended chassis is just the sort of combination I'd love to have.



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Andy, CLICK THIS for the YZ link

Martyn



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There is a slight hold up on the rebuild because I managed to strip another case bolt thread when putting the clutch cover back on disbelief

Thank goodness for the thread insert kit......

I am now suspicious of the accuracy of my 3/8 drive torque wrench as 10Nm is at the very bottom of its range. I have read that torque wrenches are most accurate in their mid range so am waiting to buy a new 2-25Nm Sealey torque wrench before final tightening the case bolts.

A bit of retail therapy in the tool department always makes me feel better biggrin

Brian 



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Oops - bad luck. cry

You're in good company with "retail therapy".

That phrase happens to be ever upon Mrs. Cubber's lips.

I have a torque wrench but on little nuts/bolts I much prefer a proper sized spanner, experience and and discretion.
However, it doesn't ALWAYS work no but mainly it does. aww

Martyn



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On M6 threads into alloy i never use a torque wrench for the same reason.

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I fitted the large starter gear and flywheel and it seems that the most technical part of the rebuild is over.

Flywheel_bolt.JPG

 

As I am using parts from a donor engine, I checked that the small starter gear had the correct number of teeth for the new large idler gear I was fitting - and it did - 16T/14T - see here to understand why it was important!

The generator cover gasket was in good shape so usable. I fitted the cover making sure the stator wires were correctly located before tightening it up. I couldn't find a used 72T/19T idler gear so had to break out a new one.

The starter gear cover was then fitted (with some decent bolts to replace the originals which invariably round out) and that's another stage completed.

Generator_cover.JPG

 

I must remember to add my engine stand to the "Essential Workshop Tools" thread wink

Both the generator and the clutch covers will need quite a bit of tidying up before I respray the whole engine prior to fitting it to the frame. But that is still a little way off.

Here is the 325 kit ready to go on next.

325-Kit.JPG

 

The Warranty Disclaimer for the piston kit isn't very encouraging cry

Brian



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That last clause is alarming. bleh

"Installation of this part could adversely affect the vehicle manufacturer's warranty coverage."

Does that mean that the original Yamaha warranty is compromised now? confusebiggrin

 



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I managed to do a bit more on the engine today.

Fitted the Wiseco piston first. Note that the 325 piston doesn't have an arrow pointing to the front so need to make sure the bigger inlet valve pockets are at the rear of the engine.

Is it just me that struggles getting the gudgeon pin circlips in? I just Googled "gudgeon pin" to make sure that I had the correct spelling and found the following video. Methinks his circlips weren't as strong as mine were today!

Anyways up, I fitted one circlip and the rings on the bench. After a good lubing up I then installed the piston on the little end and fitted the 2nd circlip.

Piston fitted.JPG

 

The Wiseco instructions for the placement of the ring gaps is a tad confusing as I think it is for a multi-cyinder engine as it shows the front of the engine in line with the gudgeon pin - see below:

Wiseco piston ring gaps.jpg

 

My understanding of the "rules" is that ring gaps should never be over the gudgeon pin, no gap should be above another gap and the compression ring gaps should be at the rear away from the exhaust port - as per the standard TTR manual. So this is how it should be - in my opinion!

Ring_gap_placement.jpg

 

Before the barrel was fitted, I put on a new base O ring. You can see from the photo below that it is much smaller than the standard O rings. I had a bevel machined in the barrel before the sleeve was fitted which Thumper don't do on their conversions. Just a bit more insurance against any oil leaks.

Cylinder base O ring.JPG

 

After lubing and fitting the barrel over the piston (can be tricky with only two hands!), I used the kickstart to turn the engine over to make sure the piston moved freely to check the rings were all sitting correctly in their grooves.

Barrel fitted.JPG

 

Before I packed up for the night, I put a bit of plastic sleeving on the timing chain so that I can retrieve it if it falls down into the cases later on. I also fitted the two dowels which locate the cylinder head and the front cam chain slipper. A few less things to forget later!

Barrel fitted 2.JPG

 

I stopped at this point as I need to decide what I am going to do about a cylinder head for it confuse

Brian



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OK - so I decided which cylinder head to use (c 1993-6). It's been a painstaking job cleaning up the one I chose as it came off a smoky engine and was a tad grubby cry

Nearly there but I thought I would post a pic up of the cleaned head. I used TFR, the pressure washer and WD40 in combination with a wide range of brushes and scrapers!

I am really impressed with the quality of the anodising on these older heads compared to those on the blue models. This one is pretty much 100% after nearly 20 years biggrin

Cylinder head.JPG

 

Before going any further I will check all the threads as it's easier to do any thread restoration at this stage. Then it'll be cleaning and lapping in valves.

Brian



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Amazing thread as always Brian, your attention to detail always impresses me, well done again! smile



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Great and very detailed account :) looking forward to read more hehe :)


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I can hardly believe it's over 4 months since I have done any work on this project disbelief

Anyways up, I needed to clear the bench to work on Steve's engine.

I don't want to muddle up any of my parts with Steve's and, rather than just pack everything away, I have had a tidy up and reminded myself of what needs doing on the 325.

What stopped me before was a problem with pitted exhaust valves. The valve seats are fine so are they made of harder material or is it just that the valves get hotter?

To save time I have just grabbed a couple of new ones from stock so that I can carry on and assemble the head.

Hopefully the photos below will show the poor state of the original valves. The new valves are sitting behind them.

Exhaust valves.JPG

Exhaust valves 2.JPG

 

Now for the job I don't particularly enjoy - lapping in the valves no



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Crikey - this must be the longest rebuild ever disbelief

I lapped in the valves a while back and the cylinder head has been getting in the way on the bench ever since so I had another go tonight. Cleaned the camshafts and journals, checked the threads for the cam cover bolts and actually test fitted the camshafts and caps!!!! Torqued up the bolts with my shiny new torque wrench and 10Nm actually feels right with this one wink

For anyone not in the know, I have circled the arrows and letters (I for inlet and E for exhaust) on the cam caps just to show where they are to be found.

Cams back on.jpg

 

I checked the valve clearances and the inlets were fine but, unsurprisingly, I needed to change the shims on the exhaust side as new valves have been fitted. A tip is to use the valve lapping tool to remove and replace the cam buckets.

Adjusting valve clearances.jpg

Just need to run the thread cleaner down through the plug hole and the head is ready to fit - and I can  get it off the bench biggrinbiggrin

 



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After finishing Steve's engine I felt sufficiently motivated to tackle my 325 project again.

Didn't take long to fit the head and cam gear. The engine is now back together and ready for tidying up before fitting it into its rolling chassis. Just got to find a few parts like the kickstart and gear levers - they gotta be tucked safely away in a box - somewhere - if I haven't used them on another build in the meanwhile disbelief

Photo of the engine below with rolling chassis in the background.

Engine complete with chassis.jpg



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325 = Cool as.

You actually have one of them swarfega dispensors Brian! Very professional! I usually just use fairy liquid and a nail brush, and walk away with oil covering the tiles or dishes!

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My step-daughter works for a "workplace" supplier Pete - very handy for gloves, etc wink



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Slow progress - still recovering from man flu cry

Engine sprayed and almost ready to fit:

Finished engine.jpg

 

However, the starter motor looked a bit manky:

Starter before.jpg

 

So, in for a penny in for a pound, I decided to strip it and tidy it up. Just as well I did. The brushes were shot! Worn out and the brush holders solid with rust. One of the O rings was broken and had been letting water in no

Old starter stripped.jpg

 

Luckily I had a newish looking starter in my spares box that had a stripped pinion. Fingers crossed it was good inside!

Donor starter.jpg

 

I was in luck! I was slightly worried about some black Bakelite-type pieces that fell out but once I realised where they came from I relaxed as the terminal locator was good on the old starter so will be a simple swap. One of the O rings looked a bit untidy so I am hoping that I can use a good one from the old motor to replace it.

Donor starter stripped.jpg

Terminal locator.jpg

 

It's not just the man flu that has been slowing me down. We have been puppy sitting for my step daughter - cute little guy but a real time waster disbelief

IMG-20151014-WA0009.jpg

 

 

 



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RE: New 325 project
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Oh glad you know where the little fella came from .For a moment I thought you were going to say I found the the mystery whinening noise from Ttr Steves engine!!!! biggrinbiggrin



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I wish! We will soon know if I have stopped Steve whining wink

Starter motor rebuilt and ready to fit!

New starter.jpg



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biggringood luck!



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my bike and the road. more far more fun!!!



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Thank you Glummer. It will be a little while longer before I can start her up - fingers crossed all will be OK!

New starter looks better:

Engine with starter.jpg

 

Can't do any more to the engine except fit it wink

Engine ready to fit.jpg

 

Now, where did I put the carb confuse



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Engine in!

Engine in.jpg



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Nice on Brian! Coming along nicely now

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6 weeks later and I have re-started the new build. I need to get a move on now as I don't have a TTR to use laning otherwise!

Rather than run backwards and forwards between the garage and workshop checking cable and wire routing etc I have both my old "donor" 325 and the new build side by side in the workshop and it will certainly make swapping and installing parts a whole lot easier.

Handlebars, levers, switches, headlight, speedo mount and indicators to be moved over first. The speedo head will stay with the old TTR so that it has the genuine mileage showing and I have another lined up for the new bike.

Parts swap.jpg



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Looking a lot further on than my build Brian. Love the engine paint, looks really lush, will need to look through earlier posts and find the colour and do mine when I get the time to rebuild it

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I am not 100% convinced that my idea of swapping over the handlebars with everything still attached was the best idea.

The added complications were heated grips and headlight switch.

Handlebars etc off.jpg

 

Anyways up, I grabbed a pair of 30mm risers to get a bit of extra height which definitely needs a longer clutch cable and probably throttle cables as well. Will check that out and feed back.

Despite giving the donor TTR a thorough power wash before stripping it, there was still quite a bit of cleaning to be done on the wires and cables.

Getting there:

20151207_205805.jpg

 

Whilst cleaning the cables I was reminded of the method I used to wire up the light switch which was to splice the switch into the yellow wire with the red stripe - see below:

Light switch solution.jpg

To be continued..........

 



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