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Post Info TOPIC: chain lub - what's best for dirt bikes.


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chain lub - what's best for dirt bikes.
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Years ago I before 0-ring chains I used to remove the chain wash it in paraffin  and cook it up in 'linklife', hang up the warm chain over the tin as most used to run back, worked well. For the last few years I've used Chainsaw oil before each trip of say 100miles, often over oiling to let the surplus +dirt run off over night. Recently I've used spray on chain grease and an sure it's stuck on and acted like a grinding paste, maybe I've used too much?

Just wondered what other riders have found the best for chains in different conditions. 



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I don't get out on my TTR as much as I should, but when I did I used to completely hose it all down after a dirty ride whilst it was still warm.

I then waited till it had dried off and then put it up on the work stand.

I then took the chain guard off and whilst spinning the wheel I'd load an old toothbrush with old, used engine oil and liberally coat the top run.

The surplus oil would drip off onto newspaper previousy placed to catch it and by the time the chain guard was re-fitted and the swing arm de-oiled it was all ready to go again. smile

Why clag a hard working chain with costly, sticky goo that attracts the grit, sand, dust and rocks to act as coarse grinding paste when used oil is easily obtained? confuse

Mind you, my Mother was Scottish and my Dad was a Yorkshireman so I ended up with deep pockets and short arms. biggrinbiggrin

Martyn



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East Budleigh. Devon



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I used bar oil for years but for quite some time have just been using 30W oil (clean!). The bar oil may have some "tack" in it that keeps it on the chain but also keeps dirt on the chain (not a problem with sawdust). So I just use oil (liberally) and wipe off/down with an old shirt after a water washing.

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I use a product from our local hardware (Bunnings). Its a spray can of lithium grease. Used to use the expensive chain lube from dealers but found it always left the hub and surrounding areas dirty and hard to clean. After washing I air dry the chain (and the bike) with a petrol leaf blower, whack it up on the stand, run it in first gear and spray both side of the chain. No mess and its ready for the next ride. A can will last me a year.

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This is getting interesting, the gist seams to be a clean chain but low lube levels - I have been over doing it. When my son first started biking he had to ride on salty roads and the O-ring chain started to seize up some links, paraffin wouldn't free them off = water can get in. I have been power washing off the chain - then leaving it on the side stand to dry off over night ( the leaf blower sounds a better idea) then oil it up.

I sort of remember there was a study done some years back with gun lubrication/wear: dry, right amount and too much. From memory I think too much did best followed by none, then the recommended amount. On the old Brit bikes, they always (well ours did) leaked oil from the gearbox so the chain was always oiled.



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I've read on a few other forums (so its not fact) that using petroleum based products (such as engine oil) reduces the life of the o ring seals.
I find with the Lithium spray (its actually white lithium grease) that after a muddy / dusty ride the chain is fairly clean and a blast with the normal hose cleans it up well. Also the grease appears white when sprayed on so its easy to see when its well covered and reduces excess. Never had it drip on the garage floor Its also great stuff for the tow ball, garage door tracks etc.

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