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Post Info TOPIC: How hot should the TTR run?


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How hot should the TTR run?
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Being air cooled I can imagine the ttr might run a touch hotter than something water cooled, but does anyone know hoy it should run?

 

I ask because since my rebuild (new rings, head/base gaskets, lapped valves, new VSOs) I think the bike runs hotter than before.  Maybe there's more heat generated from tighter fitting piston rings, perhaps the better compression and associated sealing means the mixture is slightly different and it's running leaner?

 

I was out on a ride today, it's a warm day about 22 Celsius and I had been riding moderately hard for a few hours with only some stops to check the map and tge engine was proper toasty.  The header pipe doesn't glow so I don't think it's super lean, but the whole engine, cylinder fins, clutch cover, oil filter cover were hot enough to sizzle water. Not just the header, the whole engine. 

 

That seems a bit hot to me, engine must be well over a hundred degrees to do that.

 

I'll pull the plug to see what's happening there, but anyone have any comments whether that's expected and something that'll settle down after more running in or is there something I should look into?



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Hey Pawodan,

If the exhaust is not getting red hot, you have nothing to worry about. It will take some settling in before it runs cool as a run-in engine so give it some time and see.

Remember to use mineral oil for the break-in period, otherwise the bits of metal shavings will find there way in via the thinner synthetic oil.

If you are worried, move the jet needle clip position towards the rich end (sharp end) to see if it splutters at roughly 1/3 throttle, if it does, move it back, it is obviously right where it is.

Jarrah



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2000 TT-R250M-

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Good idea on the oil Jarrah. It's on its second oil fill already since the rebuild (done about 100 miles on it now) and I'll drop it out again after today's ride and refill with something a bit thicker when hot. It's 10/40 semi synthetic I've been using up to now.

Will fiddle with the needle clip a notch as well, as see how that changes things. At the moment it pulls strongly through the range so it can't be far out, but I Guess its safer being a bit rich than a bit lean. Like I said I'll check the plug later too, see if that give an indication.

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It is also recommended  to use a Yamaha paper filter until run-in as these catch more fine metal grit than the re-useable mesh type filters.

Let us know how you go with it.

Jarrah

 

 



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I use the disposable paper filters anyway, so that should be fine. There wasn't any noticeable filings/dust on the magnetic plug or much of a metallic sheen on the first change, will be interesting to see this one as it's been a harder run that the first change.

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Interestingly after a similar rebuild I needed to rich up the carb - ie it was running lean, Not sure if maybe this is a normal thing???

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Provence FRANCE, 2005 TTR250 (x2), Harley 883 for the roads. Oh yes and the wife's XT125X.



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I too am interested on how hot they should be running ( on average). I noticed that my header pipe will glow red if I'm letting my bike idle for a bit while I'm in the woods with no light around. But if there's any light at all around, I won't be able to see it. Is that ok? Maybe someone on here might know what the temp should be, give or take a degree?

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