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Post Info TOPIC: Rear mudguard fixing pulled through


Super Guru

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Rear mudguard fixing pulled through
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I am helping a friend bring his TTR back to legality after looping it out on an enduro a couple of weeks ago.

Hopefully the photos are self explanatory:

Rear mudguard top.jpg

Rear mudguard underside.jpg

It isn't possible just to put a long bolt and penny washer in from the top as it stops the stop/tail light bolting down fully.

Has anyone got an elegant solution to suggest please?

As a beside, the edge of one of the decals has lifted and dirt had got in behind. I have cleaned the dirt out so that the decal sits flat again but it's lost its "stick" now. Is there a UK product I can use to stick the decal down again please?

Cheers

Brian



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flat the back off epoxy resin a small patch of ally then epoxy resin a nut and  threaded bar of suitable size



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Could you get a suitable nut and tack/weld a thin plate or penny washer (something larger than the pulled through hole) on the back, essentially making a nut with a large flange. You can then screw the original bolt up into the nut - if you use a washer, or drill a hole in the plate then you can also thread through if necessary.

That would still sit proud of the plastic the depth of the washer, which is not ideal, but better than sitting proud the depth of a washer + bolt head.

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the issue with attaching anything to the back side rather than the top side is that you're wholely reliant on the glue (which would be brittle if you used epoxy) to hold the fixing - Getting something above the plastic will be key to a strong joint.

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yep same priciple using a weld rather than the epoxy if you got access to a welder as you correctly state would be stronger from top and should bolt down wink



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TTRfan wrote:
Has anyone got an elegant solution to suggest please?

As a beside, the edge of one of the decals has lifted and dirt had got in behind. I have cleaned the dirt out so that the decal sits flat again but it's lost its "stick" now. Is there a UK product I can use to stick the decal down again please?

Cheers

Brian


Hey Brian, have you ever tried to weld this plastic, maybe you have an old dead mudguard or something laying around, maybe try heating the whole thing up with a heat gun and weld on a new bit with a soldering iron ?, my mechanic fixed the swirl flap linkages on my diesel Astra a while ago with a soldering iron and some cable ties

As to the sticker, I would use some double sided tape, peal the sticker back a bit more till you get to the good bit and stick the D/S tape to it, cut a much bigger bit and leave the

backing paper on so as to keep your fingers off the adhesive, then trim it , peel of the backing paper and stick down, I have some here that's not much thicker than a couple layers of clear sticky tape (Scotch Tape) ? don't know what you guys call it.



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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Thanks for the responses and helpful suggestions guys - much appreciated!

I realised after posting the pics that there is a bit of the mudguard that sits around the original special shaped fixing bolt missing and that it probably stayed on the frame at some stage along with the bolt. No longer there sadly.

I think a mixture of plastic welding and a specially MIG-welded fixing bolt will be the best solution and will let you know how I get on with the job.

I have some double-sided carpet tape somewhere Steve and will see how well that sticks to the plastics.

Thanks again everyone biggrin

Brian



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I am with Steve on this one- use a soldering iron. You will be surprised how well it works!

Jarrah

 

 



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Super Guru

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I had a go at the repair tonight. I decided it would be worth trying to cap the open end of the hole with a small piece of aluminium sheet - nice and easy to cut and bend:

Rear mudguard 002.jpg

Rear mudguard 004.jpg

 

I then riveted and screwed it onto the mudguard using a healthy amount of epoxy to help keep it all together:

Rear mudguard 005.jpg

 

I then popped in the shaped fixing bolt and again used plenty of epoxy to flood the space above the bolt head.

Rear mudguard 007.jpg

 

The tail/brake light fitted nicely on top so job done!

It all seems very firm but the proof will be whether it stays in place the next time the TTR gets dropped and the mudguard takes a hit blankstare

Brian



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Nice work Brian.

I am guessing that you are not much good with a soldering iron. wink

Jarrah

 



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Done lots of plastic welding with a soldering iron in the past but this method just looked easier wink



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Fair enough Brian, was just having a friendly dig. wink

Jarrah



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I know wink



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