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Post Info TOPIC: Help! I'm stuck in Laos with a leaky carb


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Help! I'm stuck in Laos with a leaky carb
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Hi all. I'm currently in Laos on my way to Europe and I'm having problems with the carb. I've got a 2012 TTR250 with 16000kms.

The first and most common problem is when I climb up a hill or any incline the bike coughs and splutters like its misfiring or flooding. It happens at low/mid revs but at higher revs its fine. Its ok on highways and going downhill. It starts and idles ok.

The second problem has just started yesterday. Fuel is leaking out of the overflow. I have to turn off the pet****s to stop it when I've stopped. It runs really rough for a bit and is hard to start obviously because its flooded. I guess there's something wrong with the float.

I cleaned the carb in Malaysia 4000kms ago because it was clogged up with bad fuel in Indonesia and it ran better but never spot on.

I'll pull it apart and have a look and try to clean it. Does anyone have any idea what's going on? Is there anything I should look for when I pull it apart?

Thanks for yourhelp

Mark



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Hi Mark and welcome to the forum.

Sounds like your main problem is a blocked accelerator pump nozzle. It would pay to give the needle and seat, along with all jets and airways a good cleaning. It would be best to use compressed air and solvent or fuel to assist with cleaning and to ensure a thorougher cleaning.

Be careful with the float post pin, it only comes out one way. The arrow on the float post indicates which way it was put in. The pin itself only goes one way also. I use a 1.5mm drill bit to enlarge the float post pin holes. You may not be able to enlarge them at this time though?

Here is some links to help with cleaning the accelerator nozzle-

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t53839715/rough-running-no-mid-range-power-bogs-down-in-top-problem-fi/

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t56226503/mid-rpm-range-bogs-down/

More info on the carb- HERE

Any questions- ask!

Good luck!

Jarrah

 

 

 



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Taken from my carb rebuild thread-

Checking the Accelerator Pump
Before dismantling the carburetor, it is advisable to check that the accelerator pump is working correctly. I should advise you now that petrol is not good for your eyes so be CAREFUL! The accelerator pump nozzle will have a hole (not the side shown in picture below) and it must be clean! To test this- remove carb and make sure it is full with fuel. When the throttle is applied it should squirt a nice stream of fuel into the intake. If it does not squirt (common problem), unblock the nozzle with a fine piece of wire. I use compressed air, fuel (or solvent), an old throttle or bike cable after cutting and splitting the strands apart and a pair of pliers to assist with holding the wire and prodding. Check that the one way valve is not blocked (shown below) by filling the carb bowl with fuel and pressing GENTLY down on the diaphragm, it should squirt fuel from the top of the check valve if working correctly (be careful as it could squirt fuel in your eye or shoot the 'one-way check valve' across the room). Also check that your diaphragm is not perished, if it is it will have cracks or it will be hard and brittle. Use Rubber Grease to extend the life of the diaphragm and all O-rings.
553027_562393563794119_1622177328_n.jpg
 
Dismantling the float bowl and components
Remove the float bowl by unscrewing the three screws and remove the float retaining pin. To remove the float pin , use a blunt nail or pin (or something small enough) making sure that you remove it the right way. It only goes one way and it can be a little hard to remove sometimes. You will see an arrow to indicate which way it was put in, remove it the opposite way that the arrow points. The float retaining pin only goes one way into the float posts also. Absolute care MUST be taken when removing the float pin to ensure that you do not break the float posts-YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!! I like to drill the float posts larger using the 1.5mm drill bit so it's easier to remove the pin. This also prevents the float posts from breaking (highly recommended).  Once the retaining pin has been removed the float and float needle slides out.
The following picture was from when I was helping someone and they got it wrong (as seen in picture below), but you should get the point...
Use a small Flathead screwdriver remove the pilot jet and remove the main jet using the 8mm spanner.
 
Fuel metering screw O-ring
Remove the fuel metering screw anti-clockwise and make sure the O-ring is not perished. Blow out the passage using compressed air. Install the air fuel mixture screw making sure the spring is fitted. To adjust this turn all the way in & one & a half out (usually better at two & a half). To check this, start the bike & turn in until you notice a change in revs. Then turn one & a half out (usually) or until it runs smoothly. Warning- Do not go further than three turns out or the fuel metering screw will drop out.
 
Cleaning tips
The float needle valve has a filter that cannot be reached without removing the float valve/seat  (not recommended unless you have the correct slide hammer and a replacement float valve). Flush out the float needle valve/seat with petrol with the carb upside down, then use compressed air to blow any contaminants that may have got in the fuel line. WATCH YOUR EYES!
 
Make sure all holes in your jets are spotless including sideways, you should see the holes below.

Make sure that the air jets are not blocked by using compressed air in them. 
553027_562393563794119_1622177328_n.jpg
 
Enlarging the float posts
It would be a good idea to drill the float pin holes out a bit so it's not hard to install & doesn't break in the process. Quite simple- drill both float posts using a 1.5mm drill.
 
Enjoy!
Jarrah


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what a great post- very helpful. Lets see how he gets on- I hope he reports back.

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RodYorkttr wrote:

what a great post- very helpful. Lets see how he gets on- I hope he reports back.


 Thanks!

He obviously did read at least some of it as I saw him online for some time.

Gotta love going outta your way for someone that can't even take the time to say thanks lol. no

Jarrah



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TT-R250M wrote:
RodYorkttr wrote:

what a great post- very helpful. Lets see how he gets on- I hope he reports back.w


 Thanks!

He obviously did read at least some of it as I saw him online for some time.

Gotta love going outta your way for someone that can't even take the timet to say thanks lol. no

Jarrah


 well perhaps hes busy looking for tools in Laos but ill second the above great post and as always great info and pics .Much appreciated and a great source for future reference top job Jarrahbiggrin



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Thanks for the help Jarrah, I really appreciate it.

I didn't want to reply until I had a crack at fixing it and let you know how I got on, but trying to find some carb cleaner and an air compressor with a gun in rural Laos is proving to be rather tricky.

But the bike still runs ok most if the time so I'll make my way to Vientiane, the capital, and see if I can fix it there or limp back to Bangkok where I know there are some good mechanics.

Thanks again for your help. I'll buy you some beer. But you'll have to come to Laos to drink it ;)

Cheers

Mark



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Jean Louis from Jules Classic Adventure is experienced in TTRs and is based in Vientane and might be able to help?

See http://raid.bike-rental-laos.com/contact.php?langue=en-GB for contact details.

Good luck!

Brian



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Great!! Thanks Brian. I'll give him call when I get there



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fishernz wrote:

Thanks for the help Jarrah, I really appreciate it.

Thanks again for your help. I'll buy you some beer. But you'll have to come to Laos to drink it ;)

Cheers

Mark


 I was only mucking around, it almost always gets a reply. wink

The beer is a nice gesture but it may be cheaper to just buy one down my local pub lol. smile

On the flooding carb subject- if you tap on the carb bowl with the blunt end of a screwdriver you should be able to free any dirt that is trapped in there. Not a permanent fix by any means but should help until you get it sorted. I would also be investing in an 8mm inline fuel filter, they should be cheap enough and a breeze to fit.

Hope all goes well for you, report back to let us know how your travels and the repair went.

Best wishes!

Jarrah

 



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So I made it to Bangkok and went to a good mechanic another over lander recommended and explained the problem and mentioned the accelerator pump. He pulled out the carb and sure enough the accelerator pump was just a wee dribble. He attached a hose to it ran some kind of cleaner through it, gave it a clean and now it squirts right out of the carb!

I'm heading to Nepal and the Himilayas in a few days and will be riding over some of the highest roads in the world, so he also showed me how to set the needle to accommodate for the lack of oxygen.

The bike's running better than ever. Thanks again for your help Jarrah! I really appreciate it.

 

Cheers

MarkIMG_20140718_160631.jpg



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Good you got the machine up and running ok. What a classic photo. Mechanics wife standing in the back ground. ( Dinners on the table , leave those motorbikes alone )



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What about the rear sprocket stool/chair? What a cool idea!

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fishernz wrote:

So I made it to Bangkok and went to a good mechanic another over lander recommended and explained the problem and mentioned the accelerator pump. He pulled out the carb and sure enough the accelerator pump was just a wee dribble. He attached a hose to it ran some kind of cleaner through it, gave it a clean and now it squirts right out of the carb!

I'm heading to Nepal and the Himilayas in a few days and will be riding over some of the highest roads in the world, so he also showed me how to set the needle to accommodate for the lack of oxygen.

The bike's running better than ever. Thanks again for your help Jarrah! I really appreciate it.

 

Cheers

Mark


 No problems Mark, happy to be of assistance.

Glad you got it sorted!

Jarrah

P.s. I am moving house so it may take some time to get my internet sorted again. Have been away catching up with family so sorry about the late reply.

 



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