A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Members Login
Post Info TOPIC: Battery


Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 80
Date:
RE: Battery life span
Permalink  
 


Thats pretty impressive M.......especially as presumably you have high temps where you are in Oz! Here is Greece 4 yrs seems to be about the norm. I suppose the lack of low temps should in theory reduce the starting load on the battery but from what I've seen here the high ambient temps seem to 'boil' batteries!



__________________

1998 TTR 250 OE Custom Paint Job/Stainless Steel Footpegs, Polisport Hand Guards, Custom Seat, 13 T front sprocket, Wavy F/R Discs,  KIWAV short compact mirrors,YUASA battery,Michelin T63 On/Off Enduro Tyres, Twin Air Filter, FMF Powercore 2 muffler



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 218
Date:
Permalink  
 

Mark, I noticed the same thing. Bought my 2004 a couple years ago. THE DAY I bought it. I also bought a battery also because PO said he didn't ride bike much during the years he had it. It also sounded weak the day I got it so I decided to order one so that I would not miss a day of riding. It is now over 2 years later and the sucker is stronger than my other 2 bikes (with NEWER batteries) Mine looks similar but not exactly the same:

2004battery.jpg



Attachments
__________________

'04 TT-R250sc Blue model U.S.A.



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 107
Date:
Permalink  
 

How do you know when a battery is on the way out? I went stalling in the woods on Sunday and despite doing SERIOUS road miles, 120 before getting there, the battery seemed to be going flat, and with no kicker I was worried that it might not start the bike, and my tyres aren't the greatest or grippiest so bumping may not have been an option.



-- Edited by Fladdem on Thursday 12th of June 2014 07:17:10 PM

__________________

Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1336
Date:
Permalink  
 

Fladdem wrote:

How do you know when a battery is on the way out? I went stalling in the woods on Sunday and despite doing SERIOUS road miles, 120 before getting there, the battery seemed to be going flat, and with no kicker I was worried that it might not start the bike, and my tyres aren't the greatest or grippiest so bumping may not have been an option.

 


 Hey Adam,

Your question pretty much answers itself. Your explanation of your problem is a fine example of a battery that is on the way out. smile

As a precautionary measure, I would test the red wire leading from the 15A fuse to make sure you are getting at least over 13 volts, should be roughly 13.8-VDC when the engine is running (providing that the battery is okay). If it goes over 15-V, the regulator is at fault. This is to test if the charging circuit is okay (obviously).

Jarrah



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Simple solution to battery drain
Permalink  
 


My "shopping" TTR is based on a metal-tanked model and has the original digital speedo set up.

The battery will go flat over a period of about a week unless I disconnect the battery. The only thing that I can think of that causes the battery drain is the digital speedo and I have heard about this from other owners back in the days of the Yahoo forum!

Being pushed for time, I hit on a simple solution which was to put a switch in between the main feed wire just after the fuse holder. I disconnected the wire at the handily placed bullet connectors and inserted a couple of wires going to a switch - well, I couldn't find a suitable in-line switch so it's a block connector biggrin

Simple circuit breaker 001.jpg

It is important to use the correct 3.9mm "Japanese" bullet connectors on the TTR - available from Vehicle Wiring Products. I have seen a lot of crimped terminals used on TTRs and (a) these aren't a good fit and (b) they usually pull off with no effort cry

Simple circuit breaker 002.jpg

Simple circuit breaker 003.jpg

Ideally I would have used a switch but I can only find lever or rocker switches with exposed terminals but I don't want to cut a hole in the side panel to mount one of these.

Nothing in Maplins or Vehicle Wiring Products catalogues no

Anyone know of a suitable switch please?

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 92
Date:
Permalink  
 

Do you have a multi meter with a current measure function Brian? Should be able to track down the leakage pretty quick.

I actually think what you have might be more reliable over the long term than a switch.




-- Edited by AGman on Tuesday 24th of June 2014 11:10:03 AM

__________________

Resident AG200 idiot! :)



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Permalink  
 

I seem to blow up cheap digital multi meters - got two defunct ones at the moment disbelief

So I have decided to lash out and buy a decent one with proper fuse protection to help protect at electrical incompetents like myself. A lot of folk recommended the Fluke F17B so one is on order and I will try not to blow this one up!

When I have a bit of spare time I will see if I can find the leak. As you say, better to cure the basic problem if possible.

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 92
Date:
Permalink  
 

Excellent choice of meter Brian...current range goes down to micro amps which is really good. I bet you wont blow any fuses in it because I am now going to tell you to go and google "Fluke protection fuse" and when you see the price I bet you wont blow one up....ever...:)

__________________

Resident AG200 idiot! :)



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Permalink  
 

I see what you mean Jim bleh

Gonna have to read the instructions this time biggrin



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 92
Date:
Permalink  
 

The Flukes are really good at protecting themselves. The only time you get into trouble is when you measure a current and forget to swap the + lead out of the Current socket and and back into the Voltage socket. So next time you go to measure a Voltage (which is what we do 90% of the time with a meter), it places a short across whatever you're measuring and if there is enough current capacity, it will blow the fuse in the meter and may damage what ever you're measuring.

Electronics is my profession so if you have any questions on using the meter let me know and I will try my best to explain.



-- Edited by AGman on Tuesday 24th of June 2014 01:17:45 PM

__________________

Resident AG200 idiot! :)



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Permalink  
 

AGman wrote:

Electronics is my profession so if you have any questions on using the meter let me know and I will try my best to explain.


How much time have you got disbelief biggrin 

So to measure a current, you break the circuit and put the meter between the lead ends/connectors but to measure voltage you measure between both leads?

A bit basic I know............



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 92
Date:
Permalink  
 

That's pretty much it. So for example when you get your meter, put the negative lead (black) in the negative (COM) socket on the meter and the positive lead (red) in the A socket and switch the meter to the A range. Separate your installed socket and place one lead in the female connector and the other lead in the male connector and if there is current flow you will get a reading. You always start on the A range because you won't know (most of the time) what the current flow will be so you wont risk blowing the fuse on the lower current ranges. The lower ranges are set to 400mA (1000mA to an Amp) so if your reading on the Amps range is less than 0.4A (400mA) then you can switch the positive lead to the mA/uA  socket and switch the rotary dial to the mA setting and see what it reads on the display. It might show a negative value like -30mA but that's just the way the leads are installed and doesn't matter. Don't turn your key on while doing this on the lower setting! I'd say the current with the key on will be over 400mA so switch it back to the A range if you want to see how much current is drawn with the key on.

As for voltage, your black lead goes in the COM socket and your red lead goes in the VΩ°C socket, select DC volts (V with straight lines above it) and you're ready to measure DC volts.



Fluke 17B review



__________________

Resident AG200 idiot! :)



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Permalink  
 

Excellent - many thanks Jim!

I will feed back if and when I find what's drawing current when the ignition is switched off.

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 23
Date:
Permalink  
 

I have the same problem - battery drain on the metal tank model after a week, meaning I have to disconnect the + terminal between use. I took it into an auto-electrician, but they failed to find the problem while managing to melt the plastic battery flap against the exhaust pipe - and they billed me for their "work". Useless! Anyway, thanks for the suggestion that it could be electronic speedo as I had not known that was an issue with them.



-- Edited by MuzzaNZ on Sunday 31st of August 2014 06:24:00 AM



-- Edited by MuzzaNZ on Sunday 31st of August 2014 09:59:17 AM

__________________


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 118
Date:
Permalink  
 

When I plumbed in the wiring for my GPS I used a small DC to DC converter to give me the 5V USB equivalent voltage. This little converter had a small current drain even with lo load on, so I rigged up a switch to isolate it when not in use.

__________________


Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 229
Date:
Permalink  
 

I have a metal tanked Raid with a digital speedo and it seems to hold battery for ever, as far as I know there isn't anything fancy been done to the electrics. No switches either...

__________________

Pete Brown

Keighley, West Yorkshire

'94 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid (with Open Enduro headlight, grrr...)

'54 plate Suzuki GSF 650S (Bandit)

Previously Yamaha YBR125, Yamaha TY125, Yamaha TY250



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 624
Date:
Battery strap length.
Permalink  
 


Could anyone tell me the length of the battery strap and also the length of the strap that holds the fuel tank down. (blue plastic tank model).



__________________

2004 TTR250. White Brothers E series exhaust, modded airbox, rejetted, 13/48 c&s & many more mods..



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 579
Date:
Permalink  
 

I will try and measure mine soon. but with my tank strap it maybe abit to long. The tank seems abit loose at the strap fitting. Tank can be lifted at the rear. I have to check my rubbers are ok on the frame under the tank. 



__________________

 Tweed heads Australia. 



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 579
Date:
Permalink  
 

Sorry.  Battery strap  goes around the back of battery box. Bit hard for me to measure unless i dismantle  Alot of parts. 



__________________

 Tweed heads Australia. 



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 624
Date:
Permalink  
 

Ok thanks for trying .

__________________

2004 TTR250. White Brothers E series exhaust, modded airbox, rejetted, 13/48 c&s & many more mods..



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hi Andy

I may have a couple of spare straps - let me have a look and get back to you.

If I haven't got spares then I can certainly let you have the measurements.

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 624
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks Brian .

__________________

2004 TTR250. White Brothers E series exhaust, modded airbox, rejetted, 13/48 c&s & many more mods..



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Permalink  
 

Sorry no spares Andy but here is a pic showing the lengths:

Straps.jpg

 

They are available new - if you have deep pockets!

BAND, TANK FITTING 1 4PX-24173-00 £27.43 retail inc VAT

BAND, BATTERY  133-82131-00  £7.51 retail inc VAT

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 624
Date:
Permalink  
 

I bet they don't sell many at that price, i'll search for some the same lengths. Thankyou for the pic, very helpfull.

__________________

2004 TTR250. White Brothers E series exhaust, modded airbox, rejetted, 13/48 c&s & many more mods..



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 624
Date:
Permalink  
 

Got a battery strap £5.00 smile

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Suzuki-Motorcycle-Battery-Strap-170mm-17cm-long-/301230381994?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item4622badbaa



__________________

2004 TTR250. White Brothers E series exhaust, modded airbox, rejetted, 13/48 c&s & many more mods..



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Permalink  
 

Well done - seems a reasonably close fit biggrin

Don't forget to fit the strap before the airbox

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 624
Date:
Permalink  
 

Found this place while searching, look like they will make to size if you got stuck.
www.butserrubber.com/products/straps/

__________________

2004 TTR250. White Brothers E series exhaust, modded airbox, rejetted, 13/48 c&s & many more mods..



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 218
Date:
Battery Charge
Permalink  
 


Since I may go weeks between rides, I would like to add straight hard wire ('pigtail') straight to the battery. For years now, I have been removing the side cover (on/off=hard on rubber grommets attached to frame) & un-flap the battery flap/cover to reach the lower side of battery. Because the flap fits tight around battery and the pigtail has a lump where it is crimped, I can't attach 'pigtail' wire without cutting the flap a bit. My problem is I don't a'tall dig the idea of cutting this flap. I think it probably has to be done, but if so, would like this surgery to be as minimal as possible and to retain as much of the OE battery holder flap in a way that would best keep the stock look and not hinder the design/function of the flap. - Any thoughts / Pictures of someone that has taken this on?  -BTW just found a complete holder/strap/battery/bits on US-fleabay at what seems2me a fair price (buy now/$40+$6.10 USD [Shiping $37 USD to UK & Austrailia], "or best offer") ...if anyone is in need, do a search there or PM me for a link

Thanks for any ideas - hereza blurrybright 'pigtail' picture, but it shows 'hump'

Greg

10der 001.jpg



Attachments
__________________

'04 TT-R250sc Blue model U.S.A.



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 651
Date:
Permalink  
 

have a look at bolting it onto the battery feed to the starter  solenoid and run it out round the frame . 

 



__________________


Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 34
Date:
BATTERY LOSING CHARGE !!!!!
Permalink  
 


Fitted some heated grips the other week and after a days riding with heat on battery looses charge enough not to start, switch them off bump start the bike leave the grips switched off and run for 10 minutes and bike will start on the button again, should the stator charge enough to run the heated grips, 

Brian if you read this the bike is still playing up, went laning all day Sat ran like a dream for about 4 hrs then it started missing, when its misfiring the engine knocks like its to advanced and firing too soon and wont tick over, stop for a rest for 10 to 15 mins  and off she goes and runs like a dream again for a while then it start missing and knocking again, any more ideas,

            Mick



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1723
Date:
RE: BATTERY LOOSING CHARGE !!!!!
Permalink  
 


You should be able to run heated grips. I would say either your charging system is dodgy or your battery is dying. Try a spare battery on it. Engines do make a bit of knocking sound when misfiring.

__________________

Pete. South Somerset, England.

03 Blue model. Renthal bars, (13/48), CRD AP2 zaust, Totally ttr's bash plate

https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCH8z1hQp6k1gM2kB5POhNfA



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 6397
Date:
Permalink  
 

If your battery voltage is OK when fully charged it may be worthwhile investing in one of these which would identify if a charging problem occurs whilst out on a ride.

Brian



__________________

Exeter, Devon, UK

http://www.ttr250.com  - The one and only dedicated TTR250 FAQ! 
 

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/ - THE forum for TTR250 owners



Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 651
Date:
Permalink  
 

heated grips should be ok we don't really have need for them here so not familiar with them but a bit of a look online some of them are fairly high wattage ,id be weary of anything above 40 watts combined if the head light on as well .

if so an led tail light will save a few watts and I run a 15 watt H4 head light bulb saving another 40 watts ,(LED has been in for 2 years its great but a bit bright for oncoming traffic as its not focused correctly to give the cut off on low beam )

check your stator connections on the left hand side .

if you go with a voltage indicator or meter it will give an indication of how the system is running ,with out the grips on then try it with them on .

 

 



__________________


Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 69
Date:
dead battery?
Permalink  
 


rode the bike last week, hunting grouse super fun.  got two, got home cleaned the grouse.  Next day went out to go to work, left the key on.  Today i jumped it and fired right up let her run for half hour. turned off then tried to fired up, nothing, no lights, no whirrrrr of the starter?  Is the battery shot? should i try a trickle charger.  Any ideas?  Oh yeah 2006 us model, made street legal



Attachments
__________________

nw montana, usa



Super Guru

Status: Online
Posts: 2126
Date:
Permalink  
 

Best to try the old trickle charging BEFORE stumping up for a replacement battery IMO. wink

Try a low charge for, say, 6 plus hours or longer and it will give you an indication of capability.

If the battery is old then it may be time to think "New", but you never know until you try.

Martyn

 



__________________

You're never too old to learn something stupid

Budleigh Salterton. Devon



Senior Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 183
Date:
Permalink  
 

Sweet! Hunting grouse -- with the front tire? Around here I can't ride in fall without dodging grouse and chukkers. They always seem to head straight down the road in front of me.

Maybe you have a wire issue or a battery issue but I've noticed a few times if I let it go really dead the trickle won't work, I need to jump or use a full charger to bring it back and then use the trickle. But if you jumped it and it ran for 1/2 hour you'd think it would have charged enough.

__________________
«First  <  1 2 | Page of 2  sorted by
 
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.



Create your own FREE Forum
Report Abuse
Powered by ActiveBoard