A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

mossproof · Super Guru

Rear wheel bearings part numbers

Hp · Veteran Member

Hi all first question after my new purchase 1993 open endure smile

I asked for a fresh MOT on the bike and got the report back that the rear swing arm and rear wheel bearings are shot cry

I have had a look and can only get 2000 plus model rear wheel bearings on next day delivery from wemoto. Are the rear wheels the same on all models or at least the bearings ?????? I know the colour is different smile but are the bearings ?

Help ASAP please

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Hi hp and welcome

Yes, the purple wheel models (1993-1999) are the same as the blue models (1999-2013).

The part number for the rear bearings (x3) is 93306-07202-00.

The oil seals (x2) are part number 93106-28023-00.

The size of the bearings is 60/22RS and you need three.

The oil seals are DC 28477 and you need two (obviously).

Enjoy!

Jarrah

petenz · Super Guru

mossproof wrote:
Check the numbers on the seals of the bearings, then head to your nearest Bearings and Transmissions Specialist (my local is Worcester Bearings - www.wbes.co.uk) - they will be significantly cheaper, and you usually have a choice of prices depending on quality. Sorry, can't remember the bearing numbers off the top of my head but they'll be something like 6202/2RS or 6203/2RS or similar (the 2RS bit referring to the 2 rubber seals which keep the grease in)
Alternatively, Brian and Trish at www.totallyttrs.com will be happy to get them to you with hub seals in doublequicktime!
Good luck, and welcome to the fold,
Simon.

-- Edited by mossproof on Monday 23rd of September 2013 09:28:40 PM

Don't by yamaha bearings or seals.... go to a bearing seal surplyer....

Yamaha don't make bearing/seals.... they buy them .. just like you can...

I have never had the bearing out..

17mm axle.. they will be one of these...6203 or 6303

15mm axle... " ...6202 or 6302

bearing codeing is infact quite simple for the bearing type used in motor bike wheels...

for a 6203 bearing..

6 = type... in this case .. deep groove ball race..

2 or 3 = bearing OD 2 or 3 are the most common sizes...

03 = bearing ID... in this case 17mm ID...

..........................

08 = 40mm ID

07 = 35mm ID

06 = 30mm ID

05 = 25mm ID

04 = 20mm ID

03 = 17mm ID

02 = 15mm ID

01 = 12mm ID

Hp · Veteran Member

Thanks chaps. I was sending my self cross eyed trying to figure out model differences for bearings.
Ordered them just from a local bearing supplier £4 so cant grumble at all. Just been reading how to change them, looks pretty standard apart from being two on one side.
Cheers for the help Hp

mossproof · Super Guru

Well done Jarrah. Strangely, I've got 60/22 written down and just ignored it when replying to the post. It was a long day at work! Thought old and new models would be the same but I couldn't be sure without an extensive websearch!

Simon.

WheelMan · Senior Member

Hmmmmm, thought this was strange, as the bearings I took out my supermoto wheel hub (same hub as my TTR hub, same casting numbers etc.) were not 22 id but 20 id hmm

Just assumed I was missing something, and went ahead to buy new bearings without checking the TTR bearing sizes.

So now that I come to fit the new spacers (Thankyou Brian at Totally TTRs, excellent service and very quick too!) they don't cry

So, the question is, do I rip out the brand new wrong size bearings to fit the spacers, or just cut off the part of the spacer that is supposed to fit into the bearings. Bearings are 20 id so fit snug to the axle so spacer would just sit alongside. Spunds like it would work OK.

Any comments would be really welcome smile

leigh · Senior Member

Hey Guys,

So Jarrah those are the part numbers to give a bearing shop?

60/22RS

DC 28477

(was just going to buy the all balls kit) and new spacers from Brian.

excuse my ignorance, haven't purchased this sort of thing before. So the seals are a standard part that fit the hub as well? They are not a specific Yamaha part? I am thinking the hub is made to fit standard bearings and seals?

I am about to do mine, the bearings are fine but don't know their history and it sees a lot of mud so thought I would change them and keep the old ones as spares. Have found that both the rear spacers are stuck solid though.

Anyone got any tips on getting them out? they were fine a few months ago when I last had the wheel off.

I was thinking of putting a dyna bolt (expanding bolt) in one and then using a dirft or similar I might tap them out from the other side. Must have gotten stuck to the inner part of the bearing. I grease the axel, but didn't think about greasing the spacers.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers Leigh

ttboof · Super Guru

the best way to get em out is to tighten up a dyna bolt and punch hit them out with a long punch .i like to put the new ones in the fridge and warm the hub up a bit to make it easier to tap them in

AGman · Veteran Member

Nice tip...have to remember that one.

leigh · Senior Member

Awesome thanks. Looks like the way to go.

leigh · Senior Member

Well the bolt got the spacers out. Sprocket side seal is not real good and spacer is slightly grooved so has let water in and bearing starting to rust so good time to be changing them.

Bolt wouldn't get the bearings out though. Mangled the outer part of the bolt in the end. Couldn't shift the internal spacer either. All seemed a bit seized/stuck together.

Might buy another bolt and put some heat on the hub

Take it to the bike shop

Or buy a bearing extractor kit. Prob do that as no doubt will need to do it again one day.

Cheers Leigh.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Be careful when buying a bearing extractor. The version I bought had a range of fittings but there wasn't one that fitted inside the TTR's rear bearing race. Had to have one specially made up

It's the stainless steel one at the top of the pic.

aRebuilding rera wheel 002.jpg

Some heat helps as ali expands three times more than steel apparently confuse

leigh · Senior Member

Hey thanks for posting that. The one I was thinking of buying looks exactly like that one.

Think I'll drop it into the bike shop today get them to take them out. Put the new ones in myself.

I'll be ordering some new spacers and other bits from you soon

Thanks for all your help.

Leigh

leigh · Senior Member

Bike shop sorted. 2mins I'd say. Cool sliding shaft bearing remover thingy.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Any idea what the puller was that they used please?

leigh · Senior Member

See here

Very similar to this. Slide hammer blind hole bearing puller.

Cubber · Super Guru

Is this what you wanted to display? confuse

image_14671 (Medium).jpg

Martyn

TTRfan · Super Guru

Ah - I see. Cheapest I could find on eBay here

leigh · Senior Member

Yep that's it.

leigh · Senior Member

Yep one more question.

New bearings in. The crush tube and 3 bearings all spin as one.

Crush tube seems tightish. Was when I pulled it out though. Couldnt really shift it sideways at all. Same now.

I am assuming you can't tap the bearings in to far? They only go as far until they are fully seated.

was quite gentile with them actually. Spacer was loose until last 2 taps. Seemed to centralize itself.

Just want to make sure I hadn't done it incorrectly. Slight side load I guess is counteracted by other side load once ext. spacers are in and axel tightened up.

Thanks again everyone for any answers

Cheers Leigh.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Hi Leigh

Wheel bearings and spacers - how tight is right? Bit of a conundrum and, I am afraid, not one I have an answer for.

If you don't put the bearings in far enough then the outside spacers will exert a side load pushing the inner races in against the central spacer and knacker the bearing in short order. Too much and the side load is the other way.

In my view, you have done the right thing and everything will snug up when the axle is in tight without exerting any side load. I just watched a few YouTube videos and they all tap the bearings home so I guess there is a lesson there biggrin

I am thinking that, as the bearings wear, come the time they need replacing there will be sufficient movement to allow the central spacer to move sideways a tad to allow a drift to get an edge on the bearings.

Other points of view welcome!

Brian

TTRfan · Super Guru

TTRfan wrote:
Ah - I see. Cheapest I could find on eBay here

Who is going to be brave and buy one to test on their TTR?

We need to know if it works on front and rear wheel bearings plus, more importantly coz they are tricky, the swing arm bearings.

I am trying to work out how the adapters open up on the inside bearing race of the wheel bearings if the spacer is still in there confuse

Brian

leigh · Senior Member

Interesting subject hey.

It's easy to over think things sometimes. I've never though about how it all works. So doing this myself was good as it got me thinking.

Inquistive soul I am I had a fiddle around with the internal spacer and it wasn't rock solid. Could move it with a bit of effort. So at a guess I would say its not too tight. I could then spin the bearings independently of each other. It loosened up a whisker after I moved it around.

The bearing remover defintely had a slide hammer on it. Can't say if the bearing inserts were exactly the same as those pictured as I didnt get a real close look. But he defintetly put the inserts in, did them up and then attached the slide hammer.

Thanks again for all your help

Leigh

TTRfan · Super Guru

Just bought the slide hammer puller from eBay. I will feed back as to how well it works - or not confuse

leigh · Senior Member

Hey Brian how did this go?

Did it do the job? Couldn't get the bearing out of my spare rims so had the bike shop do it again. Wouldn't mind having my own tools to do it.

Dyna bolts just don't seem to work for me.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Hi Leigh

Typical for me - as soon as I buy a "special tool" for a particular job then the need for it vanishes

So, I haven't used the slide hammer yet - sorry!

Brian

leigh · Senior Member

Hey no worries Brian. I will buy one at some point as well. Bearings are in now and wont need to come out for a little bit - but I damaged one of the seals on the bearing putting it in, so it may not last as long as it should.

Once it was 3/4's in I wasn't going to be able to take it out anyway. I like having the right tools, so will buy one at some point.

Socket shifted or something when I was tapping it in and dented the seal - DOH. Then had the bright idea to use the old bearing on top of the new one and hit that. Bit safer. Anyway all part of the learning curve doing your own maintenance.

Cheers Leigh.

walkaboutboertjie · Veteran Member

Hi Guys

Some advice needed from you esteemed gentleman and ladies - I gleam from this site (this post) that the wheel bearing size is:

"The size of the bearings is 60/22RS and you need three."

My bearing guy is telling me that is not possible - problem is the bearings are rusted to the back axle, so have to recruit help in to get them out, and I want to pick the bearings up before getting to the place where the axle removal will be attempted.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Not sure why the bearing guy says it's not possible. There are a number of different dirtbikes that use two bearings on the sprocket side as per the TTR!

Picture evidence here wink

Brian

mossproof · Super Guru

Everything is possible, some things just take a little time! (Or does he just not believe there are 3 bearings, in which case just buy 3 bearings and don't bother discussing it further - just tell him one is a spare!!)
Getting the wheel out will take patience:
Take the wheel nut off and remove the tags that are screwed to the ends of the swingarm. Remove the brake pipe from the rear caliper. With a bit of persuasion the wheel should come out backwards with the axle still in. (Will be tight because of the head of the axle still being under tension although a whack of the other end of the axle - use a block of wood to try and save the threads at this stage - might help)
Once the wheel is out, poke the seals out so you can see inside and cut them off. Now either soak everything in diesel for a few days, or head straight for the gas blowtorch. If the spacer at the threaded end of the axle won't move, get it good and hot and persuade it to turn on the axle if possible (chisel, vicegrips, waterpump pliers, stilson wrench, anything you can get to grip it while the other end of the axle is held firm in a vice.) Once this is out of the way (or even if it is not) try to heat the inner race of the bearing as much as possible (the blue flame of a gas welding torch is ideal, rather than the fat flame of a plumber's soldering torch which risks burning the alloy of the hub. Once the bearing and spacer have been well heated, you should be able to hammer the axle out with the 2 bearings, inner spacer and outer spacer on the other side still attached. Then, if the axle thread is still ok, get as medaeival as you like with the gas to break up the corrosion and knock everything apart. Unfortunately, when things are really badly corroded in there, you may sustain a little collateral damage. It is all replaceable, the main thing is to avoid damage to the wheel hub - always be aware of where the shock ends up when you're bashing things with hammers!
If you have not got access to a gas torch, a lot more soaking in diesel may well be required. It might be possible to smash the cage holding the balls in the bearing to get the balls out, allowing the axle to pass through the hub with the inner race still attached. Wear glasses as fractured hardened bearing material is sharp and moves fast!
Best of luck!
Simon.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Excellent stuff Simon! Can I plagiarise it and add it to my "how to" web page please?

My advice to any new owner before going on their first trail ride includes making sure they can get the axles out easily in case of puncture(s) wink

Brian

mossproof · Super Guru

No problem Brian. Just reading through it again to see if I've missed anything obvious. When I had to do it for the "black" bike the axle and one spacer didn't survive and the middle spacer got a bit mangled but stayed the right length and cleaned up ok. All a bit traumatic and I've tried to supress the memory! I'm lucky to have the oxyacetylene on the farm!
Simon.

walkaboutboertjie · Veteran Member

Gents, thanks as always - appreciate the time and effort. smile Maybe I did not explain so well (apologies, English is not my native tongue), let me try again.

I had 2 new tyres put on the bike by professionals last week, or let me say, I WANTED to put 2 new tyres on the bike. I came away from the professional bike fitment centre with ONLY the front tyre fitted. The "professionals" could not get the back axle to budge at all!!

So now I will take the motorbike to someone that will attempt to get the back axle out (without damaging the swingarm - I hope). Now here comes the crux of the situation!

With everyone and everything closing now this weekend for Christmas (and me wanting to have the bike for the weekend to go for a ride with my brother visiting from US of A), I was hoping to pick up 3 bearings today so that they can be inserted after getting the axle out (hopefully). So yes, it is easy to off course get the bearing sizes when the axle do eventually come out - I was just hoping to pre-empt the scurrying around and sourcing of bearings after the fact.

So I will hopefully get the following done today and tomorrow:

pick up 3 new bearings
get the rear axle out
then go back to tyre fitment centre where the purchased back tyre is waiting

So knowing the bearing sizes before hand was just my attempt to try and shorten the whole process.

The guy getting the back axle out (hopefully!) is not disputing whether there is 3 bearings (he is a German engineer and DR650 specialist - and motorbike fundi), he is just telling me that the bearing sizing I gave him (60/22 2RS) is for a massive truck bearing, and not the sizing for a motorbike bearing. I did stumble upon "6202/2RS or 6203/2RS or similar (the 2RS bit referring to the 2 rubber seals which keep the grease in)"; maybe that is more in line with what TTR bearing sizes run at.

That was a mouthful.

-- Edited by walkaboutboertjie on Thursday 22nd of December 2016 11:12:14 AM

TTRfan · Super Guru

The 60/22-2RS is correct for the rear bearing - just been out in the workshop and took a photo - see below.

22x44x12mm - so definitely not a truck bearing!

Could South African numbering be different confuse

Rear wheel bearing 60-22 - 2RS.jpg

walkaboutboertjie · Veteran Member

Africa ... it will not surprise me!
Thanks Brian, really appreciate the response, and your input mossproof, will send that photo through - cold hard evidence, gotta love it. smile

walkaboutboertjie · Veteran Member

It seems my German fundi is letting me down in this case, just phoned a bearing distributor, the guy gave me the mm measurements back in confirmation when I gave the bearing number (as per your photo Brian). smile Now to get that back axle out! hmm