I have had a couple of instances recently where the neutral warning light in particular has hardly been visible in daylight.
The remedy is simple. I found that the bulb and lens were covered in a layer of very fine dust.
The following applies to the blue model TTR but the process is similar for the white TTRs with the digital speedo except you have to take great care getting the bulb holder out as it's probably been in there since new and it's all too easy to break the rubber bulb socket
The blue models bulb holder is bigger and it comes out quite easily.
Firstly take off the headlight - 3 screws/bolts and a connector.
Look up underneath the warning light binnacle and follow instructions in the pics below:
The standard capless bulbs on the blue TTRs are 12v 3.4W and I am going to try a 5W version just for fun
The bulbs on the white models are mini capless and it's also possible to get a 5W version of these bulbs. Anyone see why I shouldn't try the higher wattage bulbs?
The only reason I could see for not using the higher wattage bulb would be the heat generated melting the plastic lens.
Why not replace with a LED bulb, you can get very bright ones, no heat generated,much more durable than a filament bulb which is useful for all the bumps off road, less drain on the battery.
Out of curiosity I bought a couple of LED capless bulbs to try in my road TTR as the neutral light was a bit dim on it. Went to fit them tonight only to be reminded that the warning light cluster on the digital speedo TTRs uses smaller bulbs. No matter as I had bought some 5W bulbs to try on the earlier warning cluster so put in one of those.
Difficult to say but I think there has been an improvement. I guess I will have to take the TTR out on a bright day to properly check
IMO- The Neutral and clutch switch is a good thing as it saves any accidental starting in gear, this may lead to premature electric start failure.
I have never had a problem with the Neutral switch, I still have the old one from my old 1994 OP in fact. I didn't use the clutch switch on my old 94 though as it didn't have electric start. Anyways....
Glad you have come back from the dark ages and joined the ''Neutral Switch Owners Club'' (NSOC)
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +