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Post Info TOPIC: Fitting an On/Off switch for lighting components


Super Guru

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Fitting an On/Off switch for lighting components
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I thought I would upload an easy way to install an on/off switch for the head-light. The reason I have done this is because the Cobra websites way is absolute hogwash (in my books). It gets the blue wires the wrong way on the switch in the diagram given. Also they ''butcher'' the main wiring harness?

Rather than confuse people or make things harder than needed, I have simplified this. It has now been tested so you should have no drama's.

First find the 9-pin connector- You will find this under the fuel tank.

481806_543283802371762_2038091139_n.jpg

 Now cut the yellow wire with a red stripe.

387783_543283745705101_1149714893_n.jpg

 Okay now that you have one end of the cut wire (yellow with a red stripe) to the feed wire at the the switch & the other cut end to the second switch wire you should fit the switch in a good place & re-fit the tank etc..

For anyone wanting other components to turn off with the headlight switch, you will need to disconnect the lighting component & run power from the headlight switch (not on the power feed side).

 The diagram below may help you understand how it works.

 

 



-- Edited by TT-R250M on Saturday 23rd of March 2013 01:40:30 PM

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Super Guru

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RE: Fitting an on/off switch for lighting components (move over Cobra)
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That's excellent Jarrah - thank you very much. I have deleted the old thread to save any possible confusion.

If you have a spare small terminal that fits into the CDi, could you possibly put a pic of both sides of it up here please to help identify it?

Can I clarify a couple of points please?

1. Is the spare pin that you use on the CDi only live when the ignition is switched on? I am pretty sure that it is from your description and,if the new wire is fitted, it would be an ideal source of power for handlebar accessories such as GPS, chargers, etc.

2. Does the red/yellow wire from the 9-pin connector under the tank feed all the lights front and rear? The colours on my manual don't correspond and don't include the 9-pin connector n

Many thanks again for taking the time to re-write the guide - most appreciated handshake.gif

Brian



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Super Guru

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I just tried this & it was easier than I thought. The headlight switch does not affect the tail-light or ilumination instrument so you can fit this without running wires from the CDi. I think that I got a little mixed up with the ''Fitting additional lights & components'' thread when I wrote this, either that or I was trying to follow Cobra's version (good excuse I know) lol b.  At the time I did not have my bike together to test this but rest assured that it has been tested now s



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That really is simple Jarrah! It takes a big man to admit a mistake w

I have been thinking about this. If an owner just wants the headlight off then an even simpler method would be to cut the dip beam wire which runs to the actual headlight bulb and run it back through a switch. To achieve the"headlight off" mode, run the bike in daylight on dip beam with the switch "off". Put the switch to "on" and you have both dip and main back in action for night-time riding. The advantage I see for this is that you don't even have to take the tank off - call me lazy if you like d

Does anyone know off-hand which is the dip wire - yellow or green - please?

Brian



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Not quite sure what you mean Brian, but from looking at the high/low switch The yellow is high beam, the green is low beam, the yellow with a red stripe is the main feed wire. If you fit the switch on the feed wire you will be able to turn the headlights off/on. If you use the yellow or green wire to fit a switch it will only turn off when you turn it to high or low, depending on which wire used.

All this said, you would be better of using the yellow wire with the red stripe so you can turn them off without having to touch the low/high beam switch.



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Thanks Jarrah.

I had the tank off to check the valve clearances and it was easy enough to tap into the red/yellow wire so I decided to fit a light switch. The switch I used (see here) has long enough leads to reach the 9-pin connector which made life easier.

I run heated grips and a GPS so think that it is probably worthwhile being able to switch the headlight off. A few extra amps to the heated grips won't go amiss in the weather we are experiencing at the moment. Spring has arrived apparently but you wouldn't know it n

I cut the red/yellow wire and double checked and, yes, both headlight beams were off and everything else, including the parking light, stayed on b

I remembered to slip some heat shrink tube over the switch wires well out of the way of where I was going to solder.

Light switch fitting 1.jpg

My soldering isn't brilliant but the joints were strong enough so that was the trickiest bit of the job done!

Light switch fitting 2.jpg

All back together and the switch did what it was supposed to do - phew!

Light switch fitting 3.jpg

The switch was easy enough to fit and I like the "idiot" on/off markings as I get easily confused s

Light switch fitting 4.jpg

Job done - about 30 minutes tops.

Brian



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Good work Brian

Glad to see there is a method to my madness :) I just can't believe it is so easy, nothing else joins to the headlight so BONUS!

If I had a decent switch I'd fit one myself.



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RE: Fitting an on/off switch for lighting components
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Excellent, simple, clear guide. I got a switch off Brian a while ago, this will give me the impetus to fit it...

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Pete Brown

Keighley, West Yorkshire

'94 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid (with Open Enduro headlight, grrr...)

'54 plate Suzuki GSF 650S (Bandit)

Previously Yamaha YBR125, Yamaha TY125, Yamaha TY250



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Hi all,

 

Even easier, just fit a switch in the earth wire at the headlight, I mounted my switch on the headlight cowl.

Yes Brian; GPS, grips and headlight will compromise the battery - last year whilst crossing a mountain range near Irkutsk in poor weather and slow traffic, I wondered why the horn did not work, found out next morning when I had to use kickstart!!!!!!!!! although the battery soon returned to full charge in good conditions.

 

Alec.



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Switch here :- (if link works)

http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m123/Livotlout/Headlight/P1280002.jpg

Alec.

P1280002.jpg

There - a picture paints a thousand words? s

Edited for you



-- Edited by Cubber on Saturday 23rd of March 2013 11:44:16 AM

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so could you use one switch to turn off the headlight and tail light or would you need 2

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Super Guru

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ttr250slw wrote:

so could you use one switch to turn off the headlight and tail light or would you need 2


 You could use one switch, provided that you run a wire from the brake light wire (yellow wire leading from the harness side) to the power feed side of the switch. Then splice/join it to the headlight wire that you cut (Yellow with a red stripe) and the switch power feed wire. You will then need to run a wire back to the brake light (yellow wire leading from rear fender) from the other side of the switch.

Jarrah



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Thanks just fitted my switch and can turn the tail light and headlight off :)

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ttr250slw wrote:

Thanks just fitted my switch and can turn the tail light and headlight off :)


 Oh yes, I was thinking about this and realized that I wrote Yellow brake light wire lol. It was blue for the taillight lol.

Glad you knew what I meant wink

Jarrah



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TT-R250M wrote:

Just a suggestion- Since this thread has already been of use, maybe it is worth being a sticky?

Jarrah


 Done biggrin



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I just added a switch between in the feed to the low-beam element all wired inside the cover of the lamp and without needing to cut any wiring. That way, with the switch off, only the side-lights illuminate (front & rear), but the main-beam switch still operates the hi-beam, so I can flash traffic if necessary. In my opinion, having a couple of 5W lamps illuminated in the event that I kill the engine but leave the ignition on isn't such a risk for flattening the battery than leaving 25W+5W+5W of dip, and 2 side lights.

Simon

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Padowan wrote:

I just added a switch between in the feed to the low-beam element all wired inside the cover of the lamp and without needing to cut any wiring. That way, with the switch off, only the side-lights illuminate (front & rear), but the main-beam switch still operates the hi-beam, so I can flash traffic if necessary. In my opinion, having a couple of 5W lamps illuminated in the event that I kill the engine but leave the ignition on isn't such a risk for flattening the battery than leaving 25W+5W+5W of dip, and 2 side lights.

Simon


 Nice one Simon! I used to run a headlight bulb with a blown dip beam which gave a similar result - in the daytime....

Brian



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Super Guru

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You don't actual have to cut the wiring as in my thread, that is just for the unexperienced. If you don't want to cut it, you can unplug the yellow wire with a red stripe by sticking a needle (or similar) down the side of the clip. It has a lock release tab on the one side of the connector. You then need a female connector that fits into the connector block to replace the yellow wire with a red stripe that you removed, and a male spade connector to join the yellow wire with a red stripe.

Jarrah



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