Hi guys can anyone help? im looking to put my 2004 TT-R 250 engine into an aluminium frame, does anyone know what bike is closest to the TT-R in engine cavity size and mounting placement? i purely use my bike for enduro and i find it is becoming increasingly hard to climb over trees and such in the forest purely due to the weight on the bike.
I cant help with an alluminium frame but i can say that the steel one honestly is'nt that heavy. To put a tt250 motor into a wr250 frame or yz250 that problems will arise fitting all the parts to make the ttr parts fit.
If you have another complete bike to throw the motor in it would be well worth it otherwize you could be looking at alot of modification & $$$$
Good luck though someone may know a way to go about it the easy way??
Alternertive: Buy lighter wheels as the OEM rims are heavy. To put this in perspective the back rim with everything attached weighs about the same as the frame 25-30 kg
It has been hard for me to find lighter rims though
Merry Christmas.
................................
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Tuesday 25th of December 2012 08:08:11 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
It is my understanding that the weight difference between steel-framed WR's & aluminum-framed WR's is only a few pounds, due to the bigger alu frame sections. Not sure where to start with lightening though the wheels are probably a good suggestion.
As it's a not too old thread.... I noticed you said that " i find it is becoming increasingly hard to climb over trees" is it that the trees are becoming bigger and more difficult or that you are plain finding it harder. Getting over obstacles like this isn't so much a matter of mass but technique, a lighter bike just helps generally when you start getting towards you're personal endurance barriers. The general theory for trees, rock or steps is hit it front wheel up and pivot the back up on contact, mostly hit the sucker hard near it's top and the bike will pivot itself. Too slow and you just ground out as you lack the momentum to keep the bike moving forwards, then it's often a bit of a fight to go either way or the front just kicks up and you land on your bum. My old XR280 probably was only 10-15lbs lighter than your TTR at best, OK it had a 280 conversion, decent pipe, FCR carb and modded cams but probably wasn't making that much more BHP, maybe more mid range. That could quite happily skip over waist high obstacles, when it didn't it really wasn't a lack of weight that caused the problem but a lack of power to lift the front end and get enough momentum so the bike pivots and kept going forwards. Even if you go ape switching to hollow Ti spindles, ultralight wheels etc you're probably only going to loose maybe 20lbs, they'll be expensive to loose though.
As an alternative I'd suggest looking at the training days that Bruce and Brent le Rich run down at your end of the world, they teach you the how to's that you see in trials riding (and these guys can skip a bike up stupidly tall vertical steps) but apply it to enduro riding. It looks good and they are both awesomely skilled riders.
Time with anyone good at what they do is worthwhile, we used to ride a local motocross course on a mates farm as special test practice and often got handy hints and tips from Dave Thorpe (3 time 500cc MX world champion) who lived a few hundred yards away. You could go away feeling you'd really learnt something useful that would make you go faster or ride more fluidly.
