Just thought i'd upload a few pics of the ''special'' tools that i made. It was pretty simple & cost me nothing. I have already used the clutch boss remover & it works great.
Had to do little revision with the clutch holding tool. The reason for this is that i was worried it would snap the clutch basket as it was only holding one tooth before. To be honest for the $30.00 i saved it was hardly worth all this effort but it is satisfaction guaranteed when you make things like this yourself.
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Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
hi barra the centre piece of this tool, the piece that goes onto the inner drum,did you fabricate this or did you happen to find something that already had the teeth cut and you adapted? If you did find a piece that already fitted what was it from?
cheers Andy
A good job by Jarrah!
Andy - I have some old metal and friction plates. Send me a PM if you would like a pair.
An alternative holder uses the centre basket bolts - see below:
Just a thought Jarrah. You only need to hold the inner basket so it would be easier to make your design with just the one metal plate like the one on the left of the pic below?
The holder on the right is a simple holder and I used to use it with a gear jammer (or bit of rag) to stop the basket turning. A lot easier to make if you haven't got welding gear.
Thanks Barra very informative but for me it would be difficult to fabricate as I have no access to welding kit. Brian your alternative looks the business! That I could make with the my limited ability and workshop - read as back garden shed :) would you happen to have any plans on pdf format stating dimensions that could be used to create that tool ?
Cheers Andy
Brian forget my previous request just seen that you sell them on ttr extras at a very resonable price!
-- Edited by Andy_C on Sunday 21st of October 2012 06:16:23 PM
hi barra the centre piece of this tool, the piece that goes onto the inner drum,did you fabricate this or did you happen to find something that already had the teeth cut and you adapted? If you did find a piece that already fitted what was it from?
There is three TTR250 friction plates (clutch) that are welded with the flat steel between. I used my old clutch friction plates from my old OP.. Very easy..
...............................
Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
hi barra the centre piece of this tool, the piece that goes onto the inner drum,did you fabricate this or did you happen to find something that already had the teeth cut and you adapted? If you did find a piece that already fitted what was it from?
cheers Andy
A good job by Jarrah!
I have some old metal and friction plates. Send me a PM if you would like a pair.
An alternative holder uses the centre basket bolts - see below:
To be honest this wasn't needed as my other tool would do as Brian's does above but just makes things quick & easy i guess.
.........................
Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
Thought I had better update this thread. If anyone has some homemade tools that they would like to add, it would be greatly appreciated.
Anyway, here is a couple of pictures of the valve compressor that I made from an old G-clamp, an old WR400 suspension linkage collar and a piece of wire-
I didn't bother welding it as I can still use the clamp this way for its intended purpose (usually lying around collecting dust lol). Works a treat!
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Keep your eye's peeled at supercheap auto, do you have one in NQ ?
Yeah, we have plenty but maybe not as cheap as down that way and it's a 45klms drive from here. I will be keeping my eye out for a cheap one at Supercheap none the less.
I do have an old trolley jack lying around but I use it now and again.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
For the sake of completion here is a picture of my clutch holder in action-
Jarrah
thanks to sharing.
thats also good job. but why you did for all the clutch fingers? there is alot of work on it.
cesar
Thanks Cesar
I was bored and I always over-do things. I guess you could call me a perfectionist! I also did not want to put all the pressure on one clutch finger as it may have broken it.
That is the only explanation(s) that is viable as even one of those locking tabs would have held it.
In hindsight I should have used a mig or tig welder as the stick welder was a little splattery (made up word) and hard to use in comparison.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Jarrah,
Nobody's saying it so I will--I'm impressed with the engine stand. Must have hurt to cut up a frame??? BTW, I use A/C stick welder too and know how hard the LITTLE stuff is to weld, so, Glad to hear the word "splattery" ...it has been added to my vocabulary
It was inspired by Brian's version so he gets some of the credit. See HERE and HERE.
The frame was from my old OE that the sump plug rattled loose and guess what happened next, yep you guessed it! So it didn't hurt too much to cut it up.
Glad you can relate to the word ''splattery'', it seems fitting for describing the welds from a stick welder.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +