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The TTR250 FAQ web pages -> TTR250 -> Repairs and maintenance -> Stripped thread on decompressor plug retaining bolt
Post Info TOPIC: Stripped thread on decompressor plug retaining bolt
barra8


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Stripped thread
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First try putting thread tape over thread.eg...  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-x-PTFE-WHITE-THREAD-SEAL-TAPE-12mX12mm-TEFLON-PLUMBER-PLUMBING-JOINT-WATER-OIL-/190578495834?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item2c5f5d115a 

 

Now put a dab of Loctite Thread-locker on thread and see if this helps. eg.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Loctite-Thread-Locking-/140687674547?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item667499cf5d  

Next...

You could buy a tap and die set  but you would have to remove the head so as not to put metal in your engine eg.. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tap-Die-Set-24-Pce-Metric-K12024-/190578852227?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2c5f628183 
 


Jarrah.


 



-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 12th of August 2012 06:05:55 AM

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titchie2


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Stripped thread on decompressor plug retaining bolt
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Can anyone please recommend a method by which you can repair stripped thread.

I noticed a small oil leak appear at the top of my cylinder head (please see photo).

On further investigation I discovered that the thread had been stripped by a previous owner hence the nut was not forming a tight seal.

Any advise on sorting this out would be greatly appreciated. Also what is that nut for? Thanks in advance guys!!

IMG_0198.JPG



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Cubber


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RE: Stripped thread
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Welcome to TTR land, titchie2

Have you seen CLICKY THINGY this before?

Martyn



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titchie2


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Thanks Martyn

Great info but i'm prety sure it's not the seal. P.s Thanks again for the advice from earlier. 



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Raggis45


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if none of the above work, then it will be down to the good old 'helicoil', see link. Locite also have a range of pipe thread sealants which may also help, Locitite 567 may work for you in this case as it is for 'coarse' threads, see 2nd link

http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm

http://www.loctite.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_uke/hs.xsl/loctite-4087.htm?&countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=productfinder&param1=brandRedDotUID%3D0000000389|x%3D0|subsubapplicationRedDotUID%3D|subapplicationRedDotUID%3D00000002IK|mode%3Dsmall|y%3D228|applicationRedDotUID%3D0000000276|pageIndex%3D0|action%3Dsearch|

you can get a Helicoil 'kit' for specific thread sizes, this includes the correct size drill, insert tool etc, but you would have to go to an engineering supplies company, for the Loctite also, if you decide to use it. If you are located in the UK, then someone like RS Components, BSL Brammer, or Buck & Hickman should be able to help



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barra8


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Very good Raggis45,

                               I am just making it clear that if you use any type of cutting device (eg. tap and die or helicoil) that you should remove the head so as not to put metal shavings in your engine.

            Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 12th of August 2012 08:25:07 AM

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TTRfan


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It is just a blanking bolt so doesn't need a lot of pressure. PTFE tape might well do it biggrin 

It should have a copper washer which could probably do with annealing as well.

Shouldn't need to remove the head if drilling and retapping - just take the cam cover off and put some rag in there. It's not too close to the slippery bits and is in a plain hole so any swarf can easily be blown out or cleaned out with a rag down the hole wink

You are welcome to borrow my Recoil kit if you want Richard.

Brian



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barra8


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Good work Brian,

                         Not sure why i did'nt think of doing that but guess i got alot on my mind atm.

                                                                                                                                         Jarrah.



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YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

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My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)

titchie2


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Thank you all for your help, very much appreciated. All fixed now, went down the helicoil route!!



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LRJ


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For a less critical application (valve cover bolts), I simply used a bolt that was a few mm longer to engage thread that wasn't stripped. The pressures acting against a head bolt are considerably higher, but it is an easy and cheap thing to try.

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