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Post Info TOPIC: "Modernising" a 1993 Yamaha TTR250 Open Enduro


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"Modernising" a 1993 Yamaha TTR250 Open Enduro
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Hel brake line problem.jpg

A little wrinkle I forgot to mention was a slight weep of brake fluid from the bottom hose union - see pic above.

Despite tightening up it was still leaking when using the front brake but not when just standing.

It took me a little while to suss out that the bottom of the stainless crimp pipe (where arrowed) was tight against the caliper preventing the union seating square and tight. I managed to lever it out a mm or so with a big screwdriver and no further problems. A bit of a design fault as is the rubber ferrule that goes in the clamp. Its too short and fat so needed trimming cry

Chancey's Venhill cable had an elbowed union so they have got it sorted.

Brian



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TTRfan wrote:

That wasn't without its own trauma. There was no VIN plate on the frame and the powder coating had completely obliterated the VIN number stamped on the headstock. I spent about 20 minutes scraping off powder coating (no easy job I assure you!) until I found it and could make it readable. Made a bit of a mess and I now need to work out how to repair the paintwork cry


I decided to use brush on Smooth Hammerite for the repair and its looking quite good. Taking a while to dry compared to ordinary Hammerite though.

Most TTRs suffer from the paint being rubbed off the headstock by the cables and the area going rusty so I am thinking of putting a shaped bit of carbon fibre style film or thick clear protective film over the area that the cables rub.

I put a bit of masking tape over the VIN number and will give it a coat of clear varnish when the Hammerite has properly hardened. However it is very faint so I have ordered a Yamaha VIN plate,as a backup, from here and just hope my mate still has his number punches wink

The blue TTRs have VIN plates but I can't recall seeing them on any purple framed models.

Parking on clean cardboard paid off as there was a tell-tale little puddle of oil under the front of the engine this morning. Soon traced it to the usual suspect - the plug in the compressor hole leaking. My mate with the lathe is still looking at a more permanent solution but has been a bit distracted of late cry

Brian



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The TTR is now in use on a daily basis as a "mule" for Totally TTRs smile

I put a Givi top box on the rack and now have a good excuse for a ride each day taking the Totally TTRs customer packages to the local Post Office biggrin

I never thought I would be using a TTR as a road bike with a top box fitted but it is really useful.

The biggest set back to fitting the top box was getting on and off the TTR. It was only going to be a matter of time before I got it wrong and we both ended up in a heap on the floor.

Having fitted a lowering link to my bro's TTR last week I decided to do the same to mine. Fitted it today - less than half an hour to do - and it made the TTR a lot easier to mount.

The pic below compares the old link to the new.

Fitting a lowering link (4).jpg

To "even up" the suspension a bit, I fitted a pair of handlebar spacers and dropped the forks up through the yokes by 22mm. That seemed to balance things up well enough and the bike still handles fine.

Fitting a lowering link.jpg

I have just picked up a couple of repaired speedo sender units so I can test them on the project bike and keep one of them for myself so that I will at last have a working speedo biggrin

Still need to sort out the leaking decompressor oil plug, graphics (a potentially big job if I do it myself) and perhaps shot blast and powder coat the side stand.

At least I can enjoy riding the bike now and it's nice not to have to power wash it after each trip wink

Brian



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Any chance of a pic of the lowered bike with top box? Fantastic effort to end up with a daily ride from the pile of scrap you started with

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Pete Brown

Keighley, West Yorkshire

'94 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid (with Open Enduro headlight, grrr...)

'54 plate Suzuki GSF 650S (Bandit)

Previously Yamaha YBR125, Yamaha TY125, Yamaha TY250



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Brian, it's nice to know you're using the bike at last. Congratulations on the beautiful "Ugly Duckling" transformation. (The bike looks nice too) biggrin

Looking at the last picture you posted I was struck by my pedantry! wink

If you look here CLICKY THINGY you may see why, but if not then,

"Displaying your tax disc

Your vehicle tax disc must be displayed on the passenger side (kerb side) of the vehicle’s windscreen. If there’s no windscreen or you have a motorcycle or sidecar, you should display the tax disc on the kerb side of the vehicle."

Martyn



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I know, I know, I know - just as I was fixing the tax disc on I remembered reading about it and in my confused and jumbled mind something made me think I had been putting the disc on the wrong side for all these years so put it on the RHS disbelief

I may, or may not, get the heat gun on it to see if the sticky will release... 

Busy playing with sender connections at the moment confuse



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The engine is nearly run in now so I have been giving it a bit more throttle only to find I had a misfire when opening the throttle wide. If I backed off then things would sort themselves out. Nevertheless, very frustrating!

It seemed to be carb related and I tried 3 different carbs each giving slightly different results but ultimately didn't solve the misfire.

So I swapped out the coil/HT lead, CDi and fitted a new spark plug. No improvement.

I seemed to be left with two possibilities - either valves or the ignition pick up.

I chose the easy option first which was to check the valve timing. I lined up the timing mark on the flywheel and took the cam cover off and was surprised to find the camshafts were one tooth out disbelief

Timing out.jpg

I corrected that and the TTR runs better than ever. I took the opportunity of fitting an indicator buzzer whilst the tank was off and changed the oil and filter after the successful test run biggrin

I really can't explain why the fault coz I am meticulous in checking the camshafts are correctly aligned when rebuilding engines confuse

I still need to get a new seat cover and the Enjoy decals fitted before I take the final pics.

Brian



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wow you have done a lot of work looks like a great job i keep thinking of rebulding my old ttr or 2000 picking up a newer one you given me hope is the motor rebuld that big of a job and are parts hard to find thank great post

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cwvisser wrote:

wow you have done a lot of work looks like a great job i keep thinking of rebulding my old ttr or 2000 picking up a newer one you given me hope is the motor rebuld that big of a job and are parts hard to find thank great post


Thanks for the feedback - and welcome to the forum Craig biggrin

The motor rebuild is always the best part of restos wink

Just got to be methodical and follow the workshop manual step by step. I am not a mechanic but only get into trouble when I don't follow the manual disbelief 

Better pics of engine rebuild in this thread 

We are always here to help if you get stuck.

Parts are easy to obtain. You are in the US so use boats.net and/or AllBalls kits where appropriate.

Good luck!

Brian



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OK - it's been a long time but I finally got around to fitting the graphics and I am very pleased with the finished result. The Enjoy Mfg graphics and seat cover are great quality. I got my mate to apply the tricky ones and he said they were the best he had seen which says a lot as he has been riding enduros for many years and has applied a LOT of graphics!

These are the "Impact" decal set - see here for the eBay advert or go to their home pages. 

The big advantage of the Enjoy graphics is that the side panel graphics cover the whole panel and therefore cover up all of the scuffs and scrapes that are part and parcel of off roading a bike. The tank graphics similarly cover nearly all of the visible tank. The down side is that the tank graphics were a tricky fit at the front. 

Overall, I can highly recommend the Enjoy graphic set from my own personal experience biggrin

As with all project bikes, you never finish! I still have to wire up the heated grips as winter is approaching.

Brian

RHSa.jpg

LHSa.jpg

fronta.jpg

 

reara.jpg



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Absolutely brilliant. What a journey from start to finish. You can now be satisfied you have completed a top quality "shed to concours" rebuild. My hat is well and truly off to you. Thanks for doing the thread, it has been a pleasure to read and follow.

Pete



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Great work Brian, looks great! Everything really works well together!

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At last - the finished article. Remarkable conclusion

Here are some before and after shots for comparison:-

Right.jpgLeft.jpg

Front.jpg

Rear.jpg

 

I think it's agreed - quite a remarkable transformation, ugly duckling to a swan. smile

I bet you're chuffed and will be sat around like a grumpy, loppy dog now you've noyhing to do.

Better start something soon or Trish will want something doing around TTR Towers. hmm

Martyn



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There is always something to do Martyn - a project bike is never actually ever finished wink

I bought one of Andrew Ferguson's clever little LED ignition light - see here - over a year ago and have only just got around to fitting it.

Andrew will custom build a unit with your own preferred settings - I chose the following:

>15.2v  red static (over-voltage)

>13.0v  green static (charging)

>12.5v  amber slow flashing (normal battery, but not charging)

<12.5v  red 4 blips & repeat  (recommended for this output to make it absolutely distinct from the one above) 

I was prompted to fit it by the need to make up a mount for the switch for my fabulous Symtec heated grips (winter is coming!) so combined the jobs.

The pic below shows the light with the engine running - green is good and means the battery is charging. The heated grips switch is on the right of the panel.

LED_ignition_light.jpg

The pic below shows the red light flashing to show the voltage of the battery with the ignition switched on but the engine not started.

LED_ignition_light 2.jpg

The light comes with a decent length of lead and it was simple job to stick the earth wire in behind the coil earth bolt and, after stripping about half an inch of wire, the positive was hooked over the brown terminal in the ignition connector block and the block connected up again.

The pic below shows the connections and also the nifty Maplins indicator buzzer which was also easy to fit.

LED_ignition_light 0.jpg

The following pic just shows the wiring under the panel.

Heated grips - switch wiring.jpg

I found that the brown wire in the connector block for the digital speedo was a switched live so took off the terminal and put on a new one incorporating the feed to the grips.

Heated grips - live feeda.jpg

A brief test and everything seems to be working. Road test next - after a spot of grandson baby sitting wink

Brian

 



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Greatly appreciated  

 EDIT: could it be possible to create a separate topic with a list of tools that make life easier ?, and where to get them ? 

- (don't know the correct names, saw them here on pics with descriptions)

"gear locking device (instead of rag)" , "drill adapter for grinding-in valves", "outer bearing race remover",

"rear wheel bearing removal insert (size, quotes for making one on a lathe)", ... confuse



-- Edited by sena on Tuesday 2nd of September 2014 03:47:54 PM

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13th April 2015.jpg

The TTR is still looking good 2 years after its rebuild. It is used on the road only and is my "shopping" bike wink

I took it for its annual MOT today and it sailed through with just an advisory on some loose spokes on the front wheel. Now that's going to be difficult to resolve as I had the wheels shot blasted and powder coated. I have a suspicion that it isn't going to be easy tightening them up so a whole new spoke set might be on the horizon no

I was very pleased with the result of the original powder coating but, in retrospect, I should have got the wheels back after shot blasting to check and tighten any loose spokes before they were powder coated. The action of shot blasting takes a small layer of metal off and the powder coating would have initially filled any gaps. However, with the continual flexing in use some have worked loose. Lesson learned!

I rebuilt a rear wheel wheel some while ago and put it on for the MOT to get it checked out. My MOT man is very hot on wheels and can spot loose spokes, run out and any dinks in the rims from a mile off so a good man to check my handiwork and am pleased he was entirely happy with it biggrin

Just got to sort those spokes on the front wheel now....

Brian 



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They should turn shouldn't they? Might be stiff turning them on the coated thread I can imagine yeah...Might not be worth it if its going to chip the powdercoat...disbelief



-- Edited by peteBLUEttr on Monday 13th of April 2015 05:49:30 PM

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Cool! I took my TTR for MOT on Saturday, sailed through with an advisory on the front pads being slightly low and the disc slightly scored. I think I have a new set of pads for the TTR somewhere, but I can't remember if it's a front or rear set. The CRM 250 went for MOT on Saturday too, that had loose spokes mentioned, he said he should fail it, but knew I'd be back again in 20 minutes with tightened spokes, so just lent me a 6mm spanner there and then. The Cub C70 and Varadero 125 sailed through with no mention of anything, must be something to do with road use only. biggrin The spokes on my CRM, one or two just turn inside the rim and won't tighten down, so perhaps the spokes have worked themselves loose inside the rim, that I can't see.


I'm surprised you're running a knobblie on the back if it's road use only? I have an Avon Distanzia on the back of my road set of wheels, because I can't justify the wear of knobblies. That and the commute home tonight was so much fun with the warm, dry roads and the tyres getting stickier than I've had them since September, I didn't realise how much lean was in them. I also never realised how good the TTR is with a pillion until about an hour ago, I always thought that the pegs were just for show, but apparently, if you're 5'4" it's not that bad crouched away back there and the engine didn't struggle as much as I thought it would, the braking just needed a touch more fore-thought. More and more I think about turning the TTR into a road-going bike only for small touring stuff, like weekends away and bits.

End thread hijack.



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Fladdem wrote:

I'm surprised you're running a knobblie on the back if it's road use only? I have an Avon Distanzia on the back of my road set of wheels, because I can't justify the wear of knobblies. 


The knobbly was what was on the rim. The wheel will be put back to go on a project bike at some stage and I will put the original wheel back in with its road tyre wink 

Brian



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Just spent two hours reading this Brian, Brilliant work and write up mate, almost makes me sad I bought a TTR that was working!! I am curious, about the engine blasting and painting, can that be done with a complete engine, or just one that had all the innards removed like yours??

 

Cheers, Rick



-- Edited by Baggers on Monday 13th of April 2015 11:35:27 PM

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Baggers wrote:

Just spent two hours reading this Brian, Brilliant work and write up mate, almost makes me sad I bought a TTR that was working!! I am curious, about the engine blasting and painting, can that be done with a complete engine, or just one that had all the innards removed like yours?? 

Cheers, Rick


Thanks Rick! That refurb took a lorra time but I learnt a lot in the process.

I can't think of any reason not to soda blast and paint the engine without dismantling it. The paint would cover everything though and make future work more difficult because of the way the paint covers all the casing joins etc. It has stood up really well to the test of time but I don't think I would do it that way again. The time and cost wouldn't justify it. 

The important thing would be to cut the time between soda blasting and having the engine back in the frame and running to as little as possible just in case any soda finds its way into the engine. You will have seen my photo of the rust on the barrel.

Brian



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with the indicator buzzer if you connect the buzzer earth to the stop light wire the buzzer doesn't make a noise while the brakes are applied , let the brakes off and the noise returns great for sitting at intersections .I used it on the Australia post bikes I used to wire up and also on my bikes and scooters

 

am easy mod and makes the mates think your an electrical guru smile 



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I got quoted 400 nicker for vapour cleaning my xs650 engine by someone local disbelief I bought some bungs, wrapped everything dodgy in tape, and gave it a good scrub with Gunk and wire brushes, then jet washed it to within a millimetre of it's life. Came up good.

 

 



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ttboof wrote:

with the indicator buzzer if you connect the buzzer earth to the stop light wire the buzzer doesn't make a noise while the brakes are applied , let the brakes off and the noise returns great for sitting at intersections. I used it on the Australia post bikes I used to wire up and also on my bikes and scooters

an easy mod and makes the mates think your an electrical guru smile 


 biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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Brian, do you use the Yamaha workshop manual for your work, or another such as the haynes one??

Cheers, Rick

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Yamaha workshop manual - best of any car/motorcycle manuals I have used!

Started on the front wheel this morning - nearly all spokes were loose.

Tried to get the spoke nipples moving to no avail. Life's too short for some things so I got the disc cutter out biggrin

Front wheel respoke 1.jpg

 

My next job line up wink

Front wheel respoke 2.jpg 

PS New spoke set available here



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You may as well stick a guide to lacing and truing a wheel on now then Brian!biggrin That is quite a lot of weights you got on the wheel there....



-- Edited by peteBLUEttr on Wednesday 15th of April 2015 01:26:00 PM

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OK Pete - just gotta remember to take pics! Regarding the weights, I wouldn't bother on a dirt bike but this one is for road use only and it just makes it a bit more comfortable to ride biggrin

Halfway putting the spokes in - bit like knitting...

Front wheel respoke 4.jpg

 

All the spokes in loose and time for lunch!

Front wheel respoke 5.jpg

 

Time to get the wheel balancer out now!

Brian



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I am lucky to have a wheel balancer. It has paid for itself after just a few wheel rebuilds in terms of saving on time, delay and cost in taking a wheel to a professional for rebuilding.

First off, mount the wheel in the machine. There are two cones on the support spindle that fix into the centre of the wheel bearings so it's not really possible to do the job without wheel bearings fitted. The wheel must be able to spin freely with no up/down or side-to-side movement. At this point I ran the wheel around and took out all the free play on the nipples with a cross-head screwdriver so that they spokes were firm but not tight.

Front wheel respoke 5.jpg

 

Next up is to adjust the pointer so that it is as close to the bottom of the rim as possible. The first job is to check that the rim is central on the hub. Adjust the nipples until the wheel can spin freely with the pointer nearly touching the rim and no high or low spots. The spokes aren't under tension at this stage so are easily adjusted. Let the high part of the rim sit at the bottom and then give the 4 or 5 nipples at the top of the wheel a quarter to half a tightening turn each depending on how much movement you need.

Front wheel respoke 6.jpg

 

Next on the agenda is to adjust the spokes to take out any sideways movement so the rim runs true.

Front wheel respoke 7.jpg

 

This is as much easier job with new spokes and nipples as everything moves freely and its quite a quick, although repetitive, job.

Once happy that the rim is running true, I did a final nip up of about a quarter turn on all the nipples and checked by tapping each spoke with the adjuster that they "rang" pretty much the same.

Back on with the tyre (Avon Distanza) taking care to get the rotation arrow going in the right direction!

Job jobbed biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Front wheel respoke 9.jpg

 

PS Fitted the wheel and road tested it to the Post Office and it's fine. No need to re-balance - nice and smooth biggrinbiggrin

Front wheel respoke 10.jpg





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Will it now need balancing, Brian? confuse

Martyn



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Yeah that is surprising that you didn't have to re balance it. Did you put the tyre back on in the exact same position or something?

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I bet its co's the weights are opposite the rim lock.... Well if that's what the other valve looking thingie is anyway!! or is that the valve :)



-- Edited by Baggers on Wednesday 15th of April 2015 06:44:57 PM



-- Edited by Baggers on Wednesday 15th of April 2015 06:45:49 PM

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Baggers wrote:

I bet its co's the weights are opposite the rim lock.... Well if that's what the other valve looking thingie is anyway!! or is that the valve :)


 Yep - the weights are to counter balance the rim lock. Not sure why I put it back in bearing in mind its a road bike confuse

The rim lock has one of these fitted wink



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Quite often tyres have a heavy point on them and if you take the tyre off and do not put it back on in the same place it will be out of balance.

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Oh dear. You guys are more perceptive than me. I stupidly put the tyre clamp right by the weights disbelief

May just take the clamp out coz it's not really needed.

Brian



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ttboof wrote:

with the indicator buzzer if you connect the buzzer earth to the stop light wire the buzzer doesn't make a noise while the brakes are applied , let the brakes off and the noise returns great for sitting at intersections .


I got the tank off at the moment and was going to re-connect the buzzer earth but not sure which stop light wire to connect to confuse

Can you advise please?

Thanks

Brian



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cant offer a colour as I'm in bed  it's late evening lol 

The earth just needs to be connected to the wire running to the stop light ie anywhere on the light side (after the switches)  



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Glutton for punishment no

rear wheel - cut spokes.jpg

Got the new spokes in now and remembered that there were two different length (by only a small amount) spoke sizes and to insert them in the right places wink

The spokes on the older TTRs seem to rust whereas the ones on the blue TTRs don't seem affected. Maybe they are stainless steel - anyone know for sure?

Balancing and tightening up to be done. I am going to leave the rim lock out this time and managed to find the correct grommet to fill the hole. I will fit a new rim tape and hope I can get the tyre back on without pinching the tube.....



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ttboof wrote:

cant offer a colour as I'm in bed  it's late evening lol 

The earth just needs to be connected to the wire running to the stop light ie anywhere on the light side (after the switches)  


 Sorry Les but I still can't fathom out how it would work. When the brake lights aren't on surely the buzzer won't have an earth connection confuse 



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TTRfan wrote:
ttboof wrote:

cant offer a colour as I'm in bed  it's late evening lol 

iThe earth just needs to be connected to the wire running to the stop light ie anywhere on the light side (after the switches)  


 Sorry Les but I still can't fathom out how it would work. When the brake lights aren't on surely the buzzer won't have an earth connection confuse 


 this is this is my chance to say trust me . as the buzzer draws a small currentit will easily earth through the bulb with out lighting it as soon as the brakes are appied the voltage on.the earth side of the buzzer   will go to 12 and with no drop across the buzzer it stops untill you release the brake .

i wont let this go untill your sorted mate cause its cool when its done 



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ttboof wrote:
TTRfan wrote:
ttboof wrote:

cant offer a colour as I'm in bed  it's late evening lol 

iThe earth just needs to be connected to the wire running to the stop light ie anywhere on the light side (after the switches)  


 Sorry Les but I still can't fathom out how it would work. When the brake lights aren't on surely the buzzer won't have an earth connection confuse 


 this is this is my chance to say trust me . as the buzzer draws a small currentit will easily earth through the bulb with out lighting it as soon as the brakes are appied the voltage on.the earth side of the buzzer   will go to 12 and with no drop across the buzzer it stops untill you release the brake .

i wont let this go untill your sorted mate cause its cool when its done 


 I now understand - thanks Les! I will let you know how I get on biggrin



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Rear wheel finished.jpg

Job jobbed!

Can anyone advise a suitable tyre pressure for the Avon Distanza for road use only please?

Brian



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2.3 bar 33psi

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Thanks for the quick response Pete!

I guessed 35lbs so not far out biggrin



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Brian - WOW! I just ran across this thread. What a mind blowing rebuild! Tons of valuable information. If you were local I'd buy you a case of beer. I think shipping to the UK would kill me though! Outstanding job Sir!

Brandon

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Thank you for the kind words Brandon - much appreciated biggrin

This was the first frame up rebuild that I did and I am using the TTR regularly so am getting the benefit!

Brian

PS Maybe I can collect that case of beer (or drink it with you) when I get over to the States again wink



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Yamaha state 29psi front/rear for my XT660R if thats any help...

Thats for a 170kg bike... so I would have thought 30psi would be

max on a light TTR... you do want the tire to flatten out very slightly

to give a good tyre contact patch with the road...



-- Edited by petenz on Friday 24th of April 2015 11:58:04 PM

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Tyre pressures reduced to just under 30lbs wink

I also took the tyre clamp out of the front wheel and re-positioned the valve opposite the weights. It was possible to reduce the number of weights as well so all good!

Front wheel weights.jpg



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Avon list 33psi for rear and 29psi in the front.

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Great job TTRFan!! Absolutely GREAT information in this thread. This will help me enormously with my own bike repair. Thanks a lot!!

Bao

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